Posted by Stephen Albert on March 19, 2008
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Cold Region Kitchen Garden Almanac for March

Spring has not come to most parts of the far north—zones 3-6, but you can still get some work done before spring-like weather arrives.

Here is a checklist of things to do in the kitchen garden during March in the cold regions of the Northern Hemisphere:

Plan and design. Map where snow melts first in the garden and mark these spots for planting early crops.

Planting bed and soil preparation. As soon as the soil is dry enough to work, clean up the garden and prepare the soil for planting cool-weather crops. First remove any winter debris or winter mulches, then take a soil sample and have it tested. You can renew most vegetable growing beds by simply adding well-rotted manure and compost.

Few seeds will germinate in cold soil where the temperature is below 45ºF (7ºC). Use a soil thermometer to check how warm your soil is.

The soil in cold frames and covered seedbeds can be prepared for sowing during March.

Greenhouse and coldframe. Check seed packets to determine the number of days from sowing to germination. Sow vegetables about six weeks before seedlings can be hardened off in a coldframe, but do not start seeds indoors too early.

Start cool-weather crops indoors first: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, leeks, onions, and parsley. Late in the month, move these cool-weather seedlings to a cold frame to harden them off before planting out.

Start less hardy crops indoors beginning after the middle of the month: beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, and spinach. These seeds require 8 to 10 weeks or more indoors.

At the end of the month or early in April, sow tender summer crops indoors: tomatoes, eggplant, squash, and herbs. Use individual peat pots for squash.

Seedlings started in a windowsill should be turned daily, watered and fertilized as necessary. If seedlings are growing under lights be sure to adjust height of the lights as necessary. Pick out or pot up seedlings sown earlier. Put seed potatoes in a warm, bright, windowsill to encourage them to sprout.

Be sure to increase greenhouse ventilation on warm days. Check greenhouse plants for signs of pests and disease which can multiply as the temperatures rise.

Open cold frame or hotbed to air, sun, and rain when the temperature is above freezing. Be sure to close frames before evening and night temperatures drop too low. Cover frames with an old blanket or straw when a freeze threatens or in drying winds.

Planting out vegetables and herbs. When the soil begins to warm and becomes workable, direct-sow early hardy crops: beets, broad beans, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, chard, lettuce, onions, parsnips, peas, radishes, and spinach. Also, plant early potatoes and onion sets. Later in the month, make a second sowing of early peas in areas where the temperature has moderated. Be sure to set up supports for peas.

Cover outdoor seedlings if you expect a heavy frost.

Dig compost and well-rotted manure into celery trenches and runner-bean trenches.

Perennial vegetables. Remove winter mulches from perennial vegetable beds and clean up any debris. Fertilize established asparagus and rhubarb beds with compost as they begin to grow. Plant new asparagus and rhubarb beds this month.

Fruit trees and vines. Gradually remove all winter mulches and burlap wrappings from around fruit trees and vines. Clean up any dropped fruit and leaves from last season.

Prune apples, pears, and other fruit trees, grapes, and berries before new growth begins. Prune out winter damage and complete pruning while plants are still dormant.

Apply dormant sprays to fruit trees before they come into growth. Dormant oil sprays or horticultural oil should be applied when the temperature is above 40ºF (4ºC). Spray apples and pears prone to scab infection. Spray gooseberries and black currants for gooseberry mildew.

Plant bare-root, balled-and-burlapped, and container trees as soon as soil can be worked. Install supports for newly planted trees. If bare-root trees and vines can’t be planted right away, heel them into trenches to keep their roots moist.

Plant currant bushes and raspberry canes and water in thoroughly.

Prune back the stems of newly planted and two-year-old gooseberries by about one-half. Prune and thin brambles if not done last fall; reapply mulch.

As snow disappears, gradually remove mulch from established strawberries and begin covering them with row covers to encourage early blooming. Remove or replace strawberries heaved by frost. You can protect strawberry plants from frost and freezing weather with cloches.

Posted by Stephen Albert on March 17, 2008
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Planning Your Kitchen Garden

Many Harvest to Table readers have asked for tips on kitchen gardening. Over the past year and a half, I’ve written extensively about vegetables and fruits that you can find at the farm market or grow yourself. For the next several weeks, I will offer my insights into kitchen gardening. Check here twice each week to find the next set of kitchen garden tips. By early this summer, you will be bringing your harvest to table.

Planning a Kitchen Garden

Your kitchen garden should be close to your kitchen. It is a garden for the kitchen.

It can be small: just a few pots of herbs or salad vegetables. It can be a bed or two dedicated to the diversity of fruits and vegetables you eat every week or the food you like to give away to friends and neighbors. Your kitchen garden can be a converted flower bed bordering a fence or a hedge. Your kitchen garden can be a few edible flowers mixed with salad greens surrounding a fruit tree at the edge of the patio. Your kitchen garden can be a small raised bed with a comfortable bench right under your kitchen window.

Your kitchen garden will give you fresh and flavorful fruits, vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers. It will offer you ingredients at the peak of ripeness to be enjoyed minutes after harvest or first thing tomorrow. The kitchen garden will give you fruits and vegetables when they are the most tasty.

Kitchen gardens have been around for a very long time. The first kitchen gardens were enclosed in small walled spaces protected from wildlife and blowing desert winds. During the Middle Ages, monks developed kitchen gardens designed in four squares often with a spring or a fountain at the center. Each square was set apart by a permanent path. The growing beds were often slightly elevated to capture the warmth of the sun.

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the French turned the kitchen garden into a near art form. Beds were designed in geometric patterns and formally edged with evergreens. Arbors, pergolas, and trellises were used to espalier and cordon fruits. Edible flowers were introduced for color. The French used the term “potager” to describe the kitchen garden. While design was an essential to the potager, the core of the potager was the very definition of the word. A “potage” is an herb or vegetable that goes into the pot on the kitchen stove.

Thomas Jefferson was one of the first American kitchen gardeners, so was George Washington. Today there are still kitchen gardens at Monticello and Mount Vernon. They are distinguished from surrounding farm fields by their diversity. A kitchen garden offers a range of fruits and vegetables and herbs. The kitchen garden offers crops that can sustain a kitchen and the people it feeds. A kitchen garden is not a field filled with just one crop. The kitchen garden is variety, not monoculture.

The best way to plan your kitchen garden is to give some thought to what you eat or would like to eat and how much. Note all of the fruits and vegetables that you bring to the table or pack for lunch. These fruits and vegetables can become the starter crops for your kitchen garden.

When you start to keep a record of what you and the people in your household eat, you will begin to have an idea of exactly how large your kitchen garden should be. How many head of lettuce do you or your family eat in a week or a month? How many carrots or onions? How many beans or squash? How many potatoes or tomatoes? How many pumpkins do you eat in a year? And while you’re making this list, don’t forget to count the vegetables in that can of soup you opened at lunch. In a  few months that vegetable soup could be fresh from your kitchen garden.

If keeping a food diary for a week or two sounds like too much work, try this: open your refrigerator and look at the fruits and vegetables inside. Treat them like crop census. There’s a head of lettuce and three tomatoes, a bag of beans and a zucchini. On the kitchen counter two apples and a couple of oranges. All of this for a week’s eating. Now you can do some simple multiplication to determine how many of these plants you will need in your kitchen garden.

In all likelihood, your kitchen garden will be much smaller than you first imagined. If the last time you planted a vegetable garden you ended up with bushels of uneaten zucchini, then this time out you need to plant fewer summer squash. Of course, that means less time in the garden and more time at the table enjoying your crops. A kitchen garden is very doable.

A kitchen garden just 4 feet by 4 feet will be large enough to bring enough produce to your table for an entire summer: one head of cabbage, one head of broccoli, one head of cauliflower, 16 heads of lettuce, five pounds of sugar peas, eight bunches of chard, nine bunches of spinach, 32 carrots, 16 beets plus beet greens, and 32 radishes. In a garden small enough to reach your arm half way across, you can grow enough food to keep your salad plate and vegetable soup pot full through most of the year.

In addition to starting your vegetable and fruit diary, here are a few more tips to think about as you plan your kitchen garden:

• Growing vegetables require full sun for at least six hours each day.

• Sow or plant each vegetable during the appropriate season when the temperature is right for that crop.

• Vegetables grow best in soil that is deep, level, and well drained.

• Soil is your kitchen garden’s most important asset. Your soil can be improved.

• Plant vegetables the right distance apart and you can avoid weeding and keep watering to a minimum.

• Harvest vegetables when they are ready, at their peak, and you will enjoy flavors that are memorable!

Posted by Stephen Albert on March 12, 2008
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Mild Region Kitchen Garden Almanac for March

Spring-like weather has arrived in most of the mild-winter regions of the northern hemisphere from zones 7 through 9. So now is the time to get growing in the kitchen garden.

Your kitchen garden is a place where you can enjoy the garden as both a gardener and a cook. Make your kitchen garden as delightful as any other room in your home. It's a place where you can grow both vegetables, small fruits, herbs, and edible flowers for the pleasure of the table and the simple delight of watching them grow, blossom, and fruit.

As soon as the ground can be worked in your kitchen garden, prepare beds, borders, and vegetable areas. The danger of frost may continue in some areas, but as the weather warms get your garden ready and begin planting.

Soil preparation. Prepare beds and planting holes as soon as the ground can be worked. Also dig up root crops left in garden from last fall.

Fork over the kitchen garden, dig in cover crops, remove weeds, rake soil to a fine tilth and spread compost if the soil is dry enough to cultivate. Prepare celery and potato trenches by adding a layer of well-rotted manure or garden compost to the trench area.

Remove winter mulch from around fruit trees, vines, and perennial vegetables that are flowering or have begun to sprout new growth.

Begin a new compost pile during the spring if you don’t already have one. Use leftover leaves, grass, and non-fatty kitchen scraps.

Greenhouse and coldframe in colder regions. If the weather remains chilly in your region, sow tender summer vegetables and herbs in the greenhouse or coldframe this month. Hardy and half-hardy vegetable starts should be ready for the coldframe now in less cold regions, having been sown last month. Start the seeds of summer vegetables that require 8 weeks or more indoors before transplanting out. Warm-weather summer crops include basil, eggplant, peppers, squash, and tomatoes.

Thin seedlings that have grown to size, pot them up, and place them in the coldframe or plant them out later this month.

Ventilate the greenhouse and coldframe when the outside temperature rises above 40ºF (4ºC). Close again before sundown. Ventilation should be increased on warm days as much as possible to prevent the buildup of diseases in the damp atmosphere. Check plants for signs of pests and disease, which often begin to multiply rapidly as the temperatures rise. Water seedlings and plants as needed.

Container gardens. If you garden in containers, prepare them now. Clean pots thoroughly. Treat wooden boxes, troughs, and tubs with preservative. Move large containers outdoors and fill them with potting mix mixed with compost.

Cold-tolerant vegetables can be planted into containers this month. Water container plants as needed and fertilize them with a water-soluble fertilizer such as compost tea or worm castings.

Sow vegetables outdoors. When the danger of heavy frost is past begin sowing cool-weather crops. You can first warm up the soil by covering it with polyethylene or cloches. Cover vegetables already in the garden with horticultural fleece or floating cloches if you expect a frost.

Start sowing vegetables without protection if you live in a mild area or your weather has warmed. If you are in doubt, check your soil with a soil thermometer to make sure the soil temperature has warmed to greater than 45ºF (7ºC). Few seeds will germinate if the soil temperature is colder. Delay planting outdoors if the soil is too cold.

Set out quick growing cool-weather transplants and sow leaf and flower vegetable seeds as soon as the danger of heavy frost is past. Cool-weather leaf and flower crops include: bok choy, broad beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, kale, lettuce, peas, and spinach. Cool-season root crops can also be planted out in the garden if the soil is not excessively wet. These include beets, carrots, kohlrabi, leeks, onion sets, parsnips, early potatoes, radishes, scallions, shallots, and turnips.

Get asparagus crowns in the ground now. Remember these roots need to be planted in an area set aside for their growth over several seasons. Top asparagus crowns with well-rotted compost.

Herbs can be sown in the garden now. Sow seeds of chervil, dill, fennel, parsley, pot marjoram, and sorrel. Perennial and biennial herbs can be lifted, divided, and replanted now. Look for any overgrown clumps of bergamot, chives, and fennel.

In areas where the day time temperature now averages 65ºF (18ºC) or greater, warm-weather crops can be sown or transplanted out. Warm-weather crops include: basil, beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, melons, squash, and tomatoes.

Feed perennial vegetables with well-rotted compost and compost tea after they begin to grow. Keep the garden free of weeds. Apply summer mulch when the weather warms.

Water in dry regions regularly and deeply. Avoid wetting the plant foliage. Protect recently planted vegetables and herbs from drying winds.

Harvest cool-weather crops as soon as they are ready. Begin to harvest spears from two- and three-year-old asparagus plants this month.

Before slugs, snails, and pill bugs invade your leafy greens, head them off with beer traps.

Fruit trees and vines. If you are in a cool region and your fruit trees have swollen buds that have not broken, you may still have time to spray for over-wintering pests with dormant spray oil.  Spray when the temperature rises above 45ºF (7ºC), but while plants are still dormant. Spray peaches, nectarines, apples, pears, plums, and almonds with a copper-based fungicide. As long as the buds have not broken, apply a second spray to trees in about 14 days.

Plant new fruit trees, avocadoes and citrus fruit when the soil is workable. Mulch established fruit trees and bushes with garden compost or well-rotted manure.

Sprinkle sulphate of potash around the root-feeding area of apples, pears, and plums to encourage good fruiting later in the year.

Prune autumn-fruiting raspberries. Cut the canes that fruited last autumn back to ground level. Prune back the stems of newly planted and two-year-old gooseberries by about one-half. Plant currant bushes and raspberry canes, and water in thoroughly. Spray gooseberries and black currants for gooseberry mildew. Protect strawberry plants with cloches.

Fertilize strawberries, brambles, and grapevines with compost when the first blossoms show.

Train blackberries and logan berries onto support wires.

Posted by Stephen Albert on March 10, 2008
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Guava

Serve guava slices on pancakes or waffles in the morning. In the evening, pair guava slices with a mild white cheese for dessert. You can even put guava slices in a baggy and send them to school or work in place of a candy bar.

The guava has the sweet flavor of a strawberry or banana or pineapple or all three. You can eat the guava out of hand or sliced or cubed and served in a tropical salad or puréed and strained to flavor poultry or pork sauces or as flavoring for mousses, ice cream bases, whipped cream or custards.

The guava is a large plum sized tropical fruit with yellow, red or purple-black skin. A guava can be round or pear-shaped and look a bit like a quince. The guava stands 2 to 3 inches tall. Its sweet, aromatic flesh can be yellow or bright pink or red and is moist and sometimes embedded with small, hard edible seeds. The rind softens to become fully edible but can be peeled away when the fruit is firmer.

There are as many as 150 varieties of guava. Each has its own subtly distinct flavor. One variety, the ‘Beaumont’, looks like a pale yellow lemon with smooth skin. It has a shocking pink to salmon-colored flesh and a juicy, sweet flowery flavor. The Beaumont is a favorite for making guava juice.

The ‘Mexican Cream’ guava has a creamy consistency and chocolate flavor. The ‘Pear Guava’ has a tropical pear flavor. The ‘Strawberry Guava’ has a dark red skin with a white sweet-tart strawberry flavored flesh. The ‘Lemon Guava’ has a lemon yellow skin and sweet tropical flavor.

Many guava lovers often say the larger and more pear-shaped the guava the better the taste.

Guava plants range in size from large evergreen shrubs to semi-deciduous trees that grow to 30 feet tall. The guava is native to Central America and the Caribbean. The word guava is derived from the Spanish name guayaba which was an attempted rendering of the fruit’s Arawakan language name. The Arawakan languages existed in the Caribbean, but are now extinct.

In the seventeenth century, Spanish and Portuguese sailors introduced the guava to India and Southeast Asia and tropical and semi-tropical regions around the world. Today, the guava is commercially grown in the southern United States, Australia, India, Africa, Brazil, and Taiwan.

Local season: Guavas begin to ripen in the fall and are available until spring. The peak season is from November to March in the northern hemisphere.

Choose: Select guavas that are free of bruises, blemishes, and soft spots. A just ripe guava will give to gentle pressure like an avocado. A ripe guava will have a floral aroma.  Firm guavas should be ripened. An unripe guava will have an astringent taste. Avoid fruit that is spotted, mushy, or very green. Ripe guavas have a fragrant aroma.

Amount: One large guava yields ⅓ to ½ cup sliced fruit.

Store: Guavas will keep at room temperature until soft. Ripe guavas can be refrigerated in a plastic or paper bag for up to 2 days. Guavas can be puréed and frozen. Guava paste can be stored in a sealed container at room temperature indefinitely.

The botanical name of the guava tree is Psidium guajava. The botanical name of the shrub guava is Psidium littorale.

Posted by Stephen Albert on March 06, 2008
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March Garden in the Northern Hemisphere

Snow. Blustery and windy. Mild and sunny.

March brings the end of winter and the beginning of spring. Spring for the northern hemisphere will arrive on March 20, the vernal equinox. On this day, the sun rises direcly in the east and sets directly in the west. There will be exactly 12 hours from sunrise to sunset. And in the northern hemisphere, every day will grow just a little bit longer until summer.

March, called Martius, by the Romans was named for Mars, the Roman god of war. March was the first month on the ancient Roman calendar until Julius caesar reivsed the calendar to make March the third month.

March is the month to get busy in the northern garden. Arichokes suckers, garlic cloves, and potatoes should be planted now for harvest in 6 months. In the greenhouse or glasshouse, tomato, eggplant and peppers seeds should be sown this month for planting out in 6 to 8 weeks when the weather has turned warm. Cucumbers, leek, melons, squash, and zucchini should also be sown indoors this month. If you are in a short-summer region, wait until the start of next month to start these seeds.

Here is a planting list for March in the northern hemisphere:

Cold northern regions—Zones 3-6. Vegetables: artichoke suckers, beets, cabbage, cape gooseberry, capsicum, carrots, chard (silverbeet), cress, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, spring onion, parsnip, peas, potato tubers, radish, rhubarb crowns, rutabaga (Swedes), salsify, Swiss chard (silverbeet), tomato, turnips. Herbs: basil, boarage, caraway, celeriac, chamomile, chervil, chives, coriander, garlic, hyssop, lemon balm, oregano, parsley, salad burnet, thyme.

Temperate Regions—Zones 7-9. Vegetables: artichoke suckers, beans, beets (beetroot), cabbage, cape gooseberry, capsicum, carrots, celery, chard (silverbeet), chayote (choko), chicory, cress, cucumber, eggplant, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, melons, mustard, spring onions, parsnip, peas, potato tubers, radish, rhubarb crowns, salsify, squash, sweet corn, sweet potato, tomato, zucchini. Herbs: basil, borage, caraway, chamomile, chervil, chicory, chilli, coriander, dill, fennel, garlic, hyssop, lemon balm, oregano, parsley, thyme.

Subtropical and Tropical Regions—Zones 10-12. Vegetables: beans, beet (beetroot), cabbage, cape gooseberry, capsicum, carrots, celery, chayote (choko), Chinese cabbage, cress, cucumber, eggplant, fennel, lettuce, marrow, melons, mustard, okra, parsnip, peas, potatoes, pumpkin, radish, rhubarb crowns, salsify, Swiss chard (silverbeet), spring onion, squash, strawberry runners, sweet corn, sweet potato, tomato, zucchini. Herbs: basil, borage, caraway, chamomile, celeriac, chervil, coriander, dill, garlic, hyssop, lemon balm, marjoram, oregano, parsley, salad burnet, thyme.

March Harvest

If you live in the moderate temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, you are still enjoying the cool weather harvest: the vegetables you planted last fall that are still producing: broccoli, cauliflower, chard, lettuce, mustard, snow peas, and spinach. 

Here is list of other vegetables and fruits coming to harvest in March: Vegetables: artichoke, asparagus, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, celeriac, celery, chard (silverbeet), Chinese cabbage, kale, lettuce, parsnip, peas, purslane, radish, rhubarb, spinach. Fruit: avocadoes, cape gooseberries, grapefruit, lemons, limes, mandarins, Navel oranges, passion fruit, tamarillos, tangeloes.

Pictured above: A Blue Lake bean begins life in the Sonoma garden in March.

Posted by Stephen Albert on March 04, 2008
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March Garden in the Southern Hemisphere

Autumn will arrive in the Southern Hemisphere--Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina, Uruguay and Chile--on March 20.

Cool season crops need to be planted as soon as possible: beetroot Brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, endive, leek, parsley, parsnip, potatoes, silverbeet (chard), and Swede (rutabaga). Cool weather crops require warm weather to germinate and begin growth. They will mature in the cool weather of autumn and be ready for harvest in late winter and early spring.

Onions should go into the garden now. Onions are day sensitive plants. They will begin their green growth in early autumn and as the days shorten into winter their shoot growth will slow and the plant will redirect its efforts to bulb formation. If you wait too long to plant onions, they will not be far enough along to establish bulb set when the the shortest days of the year come.

Sugar snap and snow peas can be planted now as well as lettuce and spinach. Get these crops in the ground early this month and you will be able to enjoy some tasty green salads in before winter.

The tomato and corn harvest should reach its peak this month. Pumpkins harvested now should be allowed to "cure" in the sun--allowing their skins to harden. Be sure to harvest pumpkins with some of the stalk still attached so that they do not rot.

Apples and pears are also ready for harvest. Harvest these fruits with a bit of leaf and stem still attached. Remember pears do not ripen on the tree. You need to pick them still firm and allow them to ripen on the kitchen counter. Pears that stay on the tree until they are soft will be mealy or woody inside.

Raspberry canes can be cut back to the ground once the harvest is complete. The old woody canes should be cut back; the recent season green canes can be left. If your raspberries were out of control this year, now is the time to tie the new green canes to a trellis for easier harvesting next year.

When strawberries are harvested you can peg down the new runners and they will set new roots at the leaf nodes. Your strawberry patch should be refurbished with new plants every few years.

If you plan to leave your garden fallow over the winter, consider revitalizing your soil with a "green manure" or cool-weather cover crop. Oats, pod vetch, lupins, and broad beans are good "green manure" choices. The roots of these plants add nitrogen to the soil. These plant grow fast and can be cut back and spaded under to add organic compost to your garden.

Temperate regions: Vegetables: artichoke suchers, broad beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, cress, eggplant, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard, onions, spring onions, peas, radish, rhubarb crowns, rutabaga (Swede), silverbeet (Swiss chard), turnips. Herbs: angelica, caraway, chervil, chicory, coriander, dill, hyssop, lemon balm, marjoram, oregano, parsley, salad burnett thyme.

Tropical and sub-tropical northern regions: Vegetables: artichoke suckers, beans, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, cape gooseberry, capsicum, carrots, celery, Chinese cabbage, cress, cucumber, eggplant, endive, kohlrabi, leek, lettuce, marrow, mustard, onions, spring onions, parsnip, peas, potato tubers, radish, rhubarb crown, silverbeet (Swiss chard), tomato, turnip. Herbs: angelica, basil, borage, caraway, celeriac, chicory, chives, coriander, fennel, hyssop, marjoram, salad burnet.

Cooler southern regions: Vegetables: broad beans, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cress, leeks, lettuce, onions, spring onions, radish, spinach, strawberry runners, turnips. Herbs: caraway, chervil, chicory, parsley, salad burnet.

March Harvest Schedule for the Southern Hemisphere:

Here is a roundup of vegetables and fruits ready for harvest during March in the Southern Hemisphere:

Vegetables: beans, capsicum, carrots, chilies, Chinese cabbage, corn, cucumber, eggplant, kale, lettuce, melons, okra, peas, pumpkins, purslane, turnips, rutabaga (Swede), summer squash, tomato, turnips, zucchini.

Fruits and nuts: almonds, apples, avocadoes, brambleberries, grapes, figs, hazelnuts/filberts, kumquat, lemons, melons, mulberries, nectarines, oranges, passionfruit, banana passionfruit, peaches, pears, pecans, plums, raspberries, strawberries, tamarilloes.

Posted by Stephen Albert on March 03, 2008
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