The oyster mushroom gets its name from its cap which, some say, resembles an oyster. The stem of the oyster mushrooms is perhaps more distinct; it unfurls something like one of those old-time paper lady's fans. The oyster mushroom has...

Never miss a recipe!

Enter your email address to subscribe to Harvest to Table free via email:

Topics Index

almanac apples artichoke arugula asparagus basil beans beets best bet varieties blueberries bok choy books broccoli brussels sprouts cabbage carrots cauliflower celery chard cherries chilies Chinese cabbage Chinese leaves compost cooking cool-season vegetables corn cucumbers dates delicious bite delicious bites dried beans eggplant farmers market fennel fresh this week garbanzo bean gardening tips garlic grapefruit grapes herbs horseradish hot peppers how to grow in the garden kale kitchen garden kitchen garden almanac kohlrabi leeks legumes lemon lettuce mandarin orange melons mint mushrooms mustard greens nectarines okra olives onions oranges parsnips peaches pears peas peppers pests and diseases pests diseases problems potatoes pumpkin radish recipes rutabaga salsify seed starting shallots soil Southern Hemisphere spinach spring onions squash strawberry summer squash sun-dried tomato sunchokes sweet corn sweet pepper sweet potato tangerine tomato turnip turnip greens vegetable garden watermelons winter squash zucchini

June 2008 Monthly Archive

Bitter Melon

You can eat the bitter melon thinly sliced raw, but chances are you'll prefer it, cooked. How about deep fried, stir-fried, parboiled, or stuffed?

Season bitter melon slices with salt, turmeric, and a little chili and then deep fry or remove the central pith and stuff this gourd with seasoned minced pork, shrimp and chopped onion, or fish paste before baking.

The bitter melon picked at maturity will be bitter. The younger, thinner, shorter and bright green bitter melon will be less bitter tasting.

Bitter melon is most popular in Asian cookery. There is a long-standing belief in Asia that anything bitter tasting is good for you and may even have healing power. Perhaps that's so. Truly, in the Occident, bitter melon is a bit of an acquired taste.

To draw the bitterness from the bitter melon, slice and liberally salt it and set aside for 30 minutes. You can then press or squeeze the slices, and press again, and pat dry before using. If the bitter melon is still too bitter blanch the slices in boiling water until they turn a bright emerald color, plunge them in cold water, and drain before cooking.

Continue reading "Bitter Melon" »

Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia:
The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide

A practical vegetable and herb garden encyclopedia

The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide is a veritable encyclopedia and easy how-to guide on all that is natural and necessary in the world of gardening and small fruit, vegetable, and herb preparation. Stephen Albert leaves no stone-collard green, leek, or potato-unearthed in this absolutely amazing field guide that greenhorns, old hands, weekend gardeners and chefs should not be without.

Sautéed Chard

Chard leaves have a hearty, yet mild spinach flavor. Chard stalks have a delicate, celery-like taste and crunch.

To get a bit of both flavors and texture sauté chard for 2 to 3 minutes after slicing leaves and stalks together crosswise.

Here's how we sautéed our just picked from the garden chard to match with the delicate flavor of grilled orange roughy: slice crosswise 6 to 8 chard leaves, place in a pan with 4 or 5 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, one or two medium garlic cloves chopped, and a dash of lemon-pepper to taste; sauté over a medium flame until just tender-crunchy and sprinkle with fresh lemon juice before serving.

Sautéed chard comes together so fast and is so flavorful that you will find yourself bringing it to the table all summer.

The key to flavorful chard is to make sure you don't overcook it. Chard cooked in less than 3 minutes will preserve its mild, sweet flavor.

Many cooks prefer to cook chard leaves and stems separately since the ribs take longer to cook. If you do this, you can combine the two after cooking or serve them separately.

The thinner chard is sliced the quicker it will cook. Overcooked chard will be soft and mushy. If you're simmering or boiling chard, use acidulated water to prevent the leaves and stalks from darkening during cooking.

Here are a few tips for cooking chard:

Simmer. Prepare chard, cutting stems crosswise into ¼-inch slices and shredding leaves. In a skillet, boil stems, covered, in ¼ inch water for 2 minutes. Add leaves and cook just until stems and leaves are tender-crisp to bite (1 to 2 more minutes).

Steam. Arrange sliced chard stems on a rack, steam for 3 minutes. Add shredded leaves and steam until just tender-crisp to bite (2 to 4 more minutes). Steam chard leaves as you would beet greens or spinach. Steam the leaves in just the water that remains on the leaves after washing. Steamed chard may have a slightly bitter taste.

Microwave. Cut stems crosswise into ¼-inch slices and shredding leaves. Place stems in a microwave-proof baking dish with 2 tablespoons water; cover. Microwave on high (100%) for 3 minutes, for 1 to 1½ pounds. Add leaves and microwave for 4 to 5 more minutes. Let stand, covered, for 2 minutes. Stems and leaves should be tender-crisp to bite.

Preparation. Wash chard carefully before using to get rid of sand and soil trapped in the leaves. Cut fibrous chard stalks off near the base and peel off any tough strings. Slice leaves into 1-inch slices. Slice stems into ½-inch slices.

Blueberry-Zweiback Crumble

There's no hiding I prefer quick and tasty. Here is a recipe for a blueberry crumble that will be prepared and out of the oven in 40 minutes, that's not counting the time passed in the garden picking the blueberries--which I consider a privilege.

The blueberry crop in my Sonoma garden has been other worldly this year. Four tall 'Earlicrop' bushes have spread their joy not only to my table but to Anna's, Becky's, Chady's, and Danon's as well. Can you imagine being able to give away blueberries! Who would say no to a gift of blueberries?

This recipe is so simple. The hardest part was picking up a box of zweiback crackers--which means heading to the baby section at the grocery if you decide not to "zweiback" your own crackers.

Zwieback is as you guessed of German derivation--"zwei" meaning twice, "back" meaning baked. Zweiback crackers are baked bread cut into slices and returned to the oven and baked again until dry and crisp. The second time around leaves the these crackers sweet tasting and easy to digest. Good to know!

Now, you might recognize the zweiback by its other names: sometimes called "rusk" and in France "biscotte." Got it!

This crumble comes together fast and the zweibacks along with a dash of cinnamon and the blueberries are just-right sweet. Topped with vanilla bean ice cream or sweetened whipped cream just out of the oven and, well, I'm sure you can already taste this dish.

Ingredients

1 cup zweiback crumbs

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

3 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

2 cups fresh blueberries

Directions

Combine the crumbs, sugar and cinnamon and then cut in the butter. Place 1 cup blueberries in a greased 8x8x2-inch pan; cover with half the crumb mix; add the remaining blueberries and top with the remaining crumbs. Press down firmly with a spatula or spoon until the mix is only 3/4 inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven, 350F for 30 minutes. Cool and cut into squares. Add your topping and serve about 6. Enjoy the compliments.

Blueberries

When it comes to fresh picking and eating, there are about 30 varieties of blueberry worthy of your attention. These can be divided into three categories: the highbush, the lowbush, and the rabbiteye.

Highbush blueberries are the most common blueberries. These are the large, plump and sweet berries with which you are most familiar. Highbush blueberries grow from 3 to 6 feet tall and are found in places where there is acid soil and chilly winters, Michigan, New Jersey, North Carolina, Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia.

Lowbush blueberries are small intensely flavored berries that grow on low bushes that stand just 6 to 18 inches tall. These blueberries grow wild from Minnesota to Maine and in the Maritime Provinces of Canada--Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia. Not surprisingly, you will find lowbush blueberries usually sold as "wild blueberries."

Rabbiteye blueberries are most common in the southern and southeastern regions of the United States. These plants grow to 6 feet tall and do not require a cold winter to set fruit. Rabbiteye blueberries are pink before they ripen; the same color as a rabbit's eye.

The large, plump, light blue berries you find at the market are probably highbush varieties. Popular high-bush cultivars include 'Earliblue', which ripens in late spring, 'Bluecrop' and 'Berkeley', which ripen during the summer, and 'Blueray', which ripens from mid-summer to late summer. Highbush blueberries are now commonly grown in Europe, Australia, and parts of South America.

The round, smooth-skinned, blue-colored blueberry grows on 1-year-old branches of established perennial shrubs. Blueberry fruits mature about 60 to 80 days after clusters of white, tubular flowers appear and are pollinated. The blueberry harvest begins when the berries are full-colored, sweet, plump, and easily pulled from the cluster.

Local season: The peak harvest season for blueberries is spring through late summer depending upon the variety.

Choose: Select firm, large plump full-colored blueberries that are deep purple-blue to blue-black with a silver frost. Reddish berries are not ripe. Color is the best indicator of maturity and flavor. Avoid blueberries that are green.

Avoid blueberries that are dull, mushy, or moldy. Avoid juice stained containers that contain too soft berries.

Amount: One pound of blueberries equals about 4 cups.

Store: Blueberries are best eaten fresh. They will keep in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for about a week. Dry blueberries will keep in the refrigerator for 5 or 6 days.

Freeze unwashed blueberries in a single layer on a shallow pan, then transfer then to a plastic bag and store in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Prepare: Blueberries should not be washed after picking. Rinse them in cool water and blot them dry with a paper towel just before using. Place them in a bowl of water and swish them around to remove dirt and rotted berries. Blot with a dry paper towel.

Cook: Blueberries are a popular ingredients in baked good such as pies, cobblers, muffins, cakes, and tarts. Blueberries can be made into jellies and jams.

Serve:
• Add fresh to fruit salads, yogurt, or ice cream.
• Combine with raspberries and strawberries and serve fresh.
• Serve fresh on pancakes or with cream.
• Use in jams, jellies, or preserves.
• Bake in pies, tarts, cobblers, coffee cakes, and muffins.

Flavor partners: Blueberries have a flavor affinity for cinnamon, crème fraîche, ginger, lemon, mace, melons, nectarines, nutmeg, orange, sour cream, walnuts, and yogurt.

Beverage pairings: Still or effervescent water, lemon- or lime-based drinks, Muscat, Riesling, sparkling wine.

Nutrition: Blueberries are rich in vitamin C. One cup of blueberries has about 90 calories.

The botanical name for highbush blueberry is Vaccinium corymbosum; for lowbush blueberry is V. angustifolium; for the rabbiteye blueberry V. Ashei.

The European bilberry is a tiny dark blueish-purple summer berry. In North America it is known as the whortleberry. The botanical name for the bilberry is Vaccinium myrtillus.

Strawberry Cheese

Why are strawberries called strawberries? The word 'strawberry' dates back nearly 2,000 years to the Anglo-Saxons. Is it because the strawberry's runners look like straw? Or because the berry's external seeds look like little golden bits of chaff? No one knows.

This little stuffed strawberry dish is a dessert-appetizer-snack. It's a great way to do something different with strawberries other than eat them out of hand--which is pretty hard to beat.

You don't have to stuff strawberries with this strawberry-cheese, you can just spread this mix on muffins or toast or crackers.

Makes about 1½ cup

6 ounces cream cheese

1½ teaspoons toasted poppy seeds

⅓ Cup finely chopped strawberries

Several whole strawberries for stuffing

In a small bowl, mix together cheese, poppy seeds and chopped strawberries. Stuff several hollowed out strawberries--this amount will stuff about two dozen good size strawberries.

You can also spoon this strawberry cheese into a small, decorative serving dish and garnish with whole strawberry and thyme and serve with crudités or little squares of toast.

Strawberry Butter

Strawberry butter is just what waffles need. That is strawberry butter and strawberries.

Strawberry butter is tasty on homemade breads, rolls, muffins, biscuits, pancakes, and waffles.

Spring and early summer are the time for strawberries. Strawberry shortcake, strawberry tarts, and strawberry ice cream are all in season in spring and early summer.

Choose strawberries that are full, red, and shiny are ripe. If you get hold of strawberries with green patches, set them aside on the kitchen counter overnight in a single layer and let them ripen. No need to force your enjoyment of strawberries, only settle for strawberries that are sweet and ripe.

The best tasting strawberries are the ones harvested the day after they reach ripeness. This means you need to keep your fingers on the strawberries this time of year so that you can enjoy them when they are most tasty.

Here are the directions for making strawberry butter:

½ cup sliced strawberries

1 tablespoon honey

½ cup butter at room temperature

In a medium-size bowl, mash the strawberries and honey together. Use an electric mixer or a potato masher and gradually beat in half of the butter. Give it a chance; it will blend together even if the mix seems reluctant at first. When half the butter has been added, whip in the remaining butter--if you are using the electric mixer increase the speed from medium to high. Soon the mix will be light and fluffy. If this strawberry butter doesn't go straight on your waffles, you can pack the mix into a mold or crock and cover tightly with platic wrap and refrigerate until ready for use. Makes about 3/4 cup.

Cucumber Growing

Slicing cucumbers and pickling cucumbers: that’s how cucumbers are divided. It is said that the ancient Roman Emperor Tiberius demanded cucumbers on his table every day of the year. The story does not say if they were slicing or pickling cucumbers; maybe both.

The English or Holland or European cucumber are thick meated and seedless; the Armenian cucumber or Syrian or Turkish cucumber are pale green and curled; the lemon cucumber is shaped like a lemon and yellow: they are slicing cucumbers. Pickling cucumbers include the small West Indian Gherkin and the larger National Pickling.

“Cool as a cucumber” means you are about 20 degrees cooler than the outside air on a warm day, that is if you are a cucumber. That is said to be a scientific fact. For the kitchen gardener, “cool as a cucumber” may simply mean keeping cool in the face of a lot of cucumbers at harvest time.Slicing cucumbers are usually eaten raw on sandwiches or salads but may be cooked—prepared like squash. Cucumbers can replace squash in most recipes.

Here are cucumber growing basics for your kitchen garden:

Site. Cucumbers grow best in full sun but will grow with just 5 hours of sun a day. Cucumbers are very tender vegetables; they need temperatures of 70°F (21ºC) or warmer to grow well. They grow best in growing zones 4–12. If you allow cucumber vines to sprawl on the ground you will need about 9 square feet (2.7 sq m) per plant. You can grow cucumbers vertically; place them next to a fence or a trellis.

Container growing: Cucumbers will grow in containers: choose a container at least 8 inches (20 cm) wide and 12 inches (30 cm) deep. Use a trellis or support the vine to increase yields.

Soil. Cucumbers prefer well-drained sandy loam supplemented with compost or well-rotted manure.

Planting. You can direct sow cucumber seed in spring after all danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed to 70°F (21°C). Seed will not germinate at a soil temperature below 50°F (10°C). Sow seed ¾–1 inch (1.9–3.8 cm) deep, thinned to 36 inch (90 cm) apart. Cucumbers require 55–65 frost-free days to mature.

To get a head start on the season, sow cucumbers in peat pots 3–5 weeks before planting out. Transplant cucumbers out into the garden after the soil has warmed and the weather settled. For successive crops, plant cucumbers every 2 weeks until midsummer.

Watering. Cucumbers require moderate water before flowering. Heavy watering from flowering to harvest will result in a larger crop. Avoid overhead watering.

Feeding. Cucumbers are heavy feeders. They prefer ample amounts of phosphorus and potassium and a moderate amount of nitrogen. Add compost and phosphorus to the soil before planting.

Spray cucumbers with fish emulsion or compost tea 1–2 times per month during the growing season. Fertilize with blood meal during the period before blooming.

Companions. Cucumbers grow well with bush beans, broccoli, cabbage family, corn, dill, eggplant, kale, lettuce, melon, nasturtium, peas, pumpkins, radish, squash, sunflower, and tomatoes. Avoid plating cucumbers with potatoes and herbs.

Pests. Aphids, cucumber beetles and other beetles and insects can attack cucumbers. Floating row covers will protect young plants before they bloom. After blooming, pinch out infested vegetation or hose off aphids or cucumber beetles, and hand pick cutworms, slugs, snails, and squash bugs.

Diseases: Several plant viruses and fungi can plague cucumbers. Plant disease resistant varieties, and remove and destroy infected plants. Do not grow cucumbers or their relatives, such as squash and melons, in the same spot more often than once every 3 years.

Harvest. Cucumbers are ready for harvest usually from midsummer onwards. Harvest cucumbers 3–4 times per week as fruit matures; this allows the setting of new flowers and fruit. Harvest when the fruit is elongated and the seeds are still succulent.

Varieties. Choose from these slicing cucumbers: ‘Marketmore’, ‘General Lee’, ‘Bush Champion’, ‘Salad Bush’, ‘Sweet Success’. Choose from these picklers: ‘Pickalot’, ‘Pioneer’, ‘Little Leaf’, ‘Northern Pickling’. Others cucumber types include: ‘Suyo Long” an Asian slicing; ‘Lemon’ is lemon shaped, and ‘Armenian’. For containers, choose ‘Pot Luck’, ‘Bush Champion’, ‘Spacemaster’, ‘Patio Pik’, ‘Salad Bush’.

Pictured above is a lemon cucumber.

Eggplant Growing

Aubergine or eggplant? You’ll find this vegetable under either name in cookbooks. Eggplant is the name used by most American speakers. Aubergine is chiefly a British usage.

Eggplant was the name originally given to the white-skinned, egg-shaped variety of the vegetable sometime in the mid-eighteenth century. Aubergine followed about 30 years later. By the middle of the nineteenth century, the term eggplant included the purple-skinned aubergine.

Try any color eggplant stuffed with chopped tomatoes, onions, and garlic cooked in olive oil. This tasty dish is called “The Iman Fainted.” It seems an Iman married a beautiful young girl who brought eggplant and olive oil as part of her dowry. Every night after they were married, she served the Iman stuffed eggplant. When the eggplant was gone, the husband asked his new wife where his favorite meal was. When she explained they had run out of eggplant, the Iman fainted.

Eggplant is always served cooked. You can bake, grill, stew, and deep-fry eggplant. Stuff eggplant and prepare for the Iman to faint.

Here are the basics for growing eggplant in your kitchen garden:

Site. Grow eggplant in full sun. In hot regions where the temperature tops 100°F (38°C), it’s best to protect plants with shade covers. Avoid cool locations because eggplant blossoms will drop if temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C). Eggplant is a very tender vegetable that grows best in growing zones 5–12. It will grow as a perennial in growing zones 10 and 11.

Soil. Eggplant prefers light, humus-rich, well-drained, warm soil. If planted in early spring, eggplant grows best in light sandy soils; loam is preferred for later crops. In high rainfall regions or in areas with poor drainage, grow eggplant in raised beds.

Container growing. Eggplant will grow in a container at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep; choose a space-saving variety. Grow eggplant in containers in short season regions where containers will retain heat and can be moved to protected locations when temperatures cool.

Planting. In cold-winter climates, sow eggplant indoors 6–8 weeks before planting out. Transplant eggplant outdoors when the daytime air temperature average at least 70°F (21°C) and night temperatures remain above 55°F (13ºC). In cool regions, use row covers to control the air temperature or warm the soil by covering with black plastic.

Sow eggplant seed ¼ –½ inches (6–12 mm) deep and 3–5 inches (7.5–13 cm) apart. Later thin plants to 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) apart in all directions. In long-season climates, you can make small plantings 4 weeks apart to lengthen the harvest. Eggplant will mature in 100–140 frost-free days from seed; 50–75 frost-free days for transplants.

Watering. Keep the soil around eggplants moist. Soak the soil deeply using water basins around each plant. Poor blossom set and fruit color may be caused by low soil moisture. Use organic compost mulch to keep the soil moist and free of weeds.

Feeding. Eggplants require moderate amounts of nitrogen and high amounts of potassium and phosphorus. Feed eggplant every 3–4 weeks with fish emulsion or compost tea to deliver these nutrients.

Companions. Eggplants grow well with all beans, peas, peppers, potatoes, and southern peas. Avoid growing eggplant with corn, fennel, and tomatoes. Avoid planting eggplants where peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, or other eggplants were grown during the past 2 years.

Pests. Aphids, beetles, cutworms, and other insect pests can attack eggplants. Use row covers to deter insect pests or apply a light dusting of ground limestone to the plants. Place collars around eggplants at the time of transplanting to discourage cutworms.

Diseases. Several viruses and fungi can plague eggplant. Plant resistant varieties, clear debris from the garden, and use a 3-year crop rotation to combat disease.

Harvest. Pick eggplant when shiny, firm, and full-colored. Mature fruit is soft enough that thumb pressure will leave an indentation in the flesh of the fruit. Use shears to clip the fruit with stem attached. Harvest eggplant regularly to encourage further fruiting. Each plant usually produces 3–4 well-developed fruits.

Varieties. Choose from these eggplant types and varieties: ‘Black Beauty’ the classic purple-skinned variety; ‘Dusky’ is purple, and ‘Rosa Bianca’, heirloom with white skin and lavender streaks. There are also many Asian eggplant varieties.

Pictured above is the eggplant Rosa Bianca.

Squash Growing

Native Americans called it isquoutersquash. The British call it marrow. Squash is the American English term.

Zucchini, summer squash, winter squash, and pumpkins grow best once the air temperature averages 65ºF (18ºC). That means squash can be sown in late spring just about everywhere, and if you live in a long growing season region where the weather turned warm six weeks ago, you may be on to your second planting of squash, perhaps a second variety.

Most summer squash require 50 to 65 frost free days to mature. That means you can safely plant squash in the last week or two of spring. Winter squashes take a bit longer: 60 to 100 frost free days to mature. You can still sow winter squash seeds in late spring and get to harvest before the first frost in most regions.

Tender summer squash can be eaten raw or cooked. If you got an early start on your squash this year, you may already be adding sliced raw young squash to salads. Winter squashes are drier and more fibrous than summer squashes. Winter squashes are harvested when fully ripe and require cooking. Get them growing before the official start of summer arrives.

The requirements for planting and growing summer and winter squashes are the same except for the time required to harvest.

Site. Squash require full sun, warm weather, and good air circulation to mature. Squash grows best in growing zones 3-10. If your growing season is short, choose a bush variety squash which will mature more quickly.

Soil. Plant squash in humus-rich, well-drained soil; work in organic compost the autumn before planting or spread compost in the growing bed during the growing season. Bush-types varieties can be grown in containers.

Planting. To get a jump on the season, start summer and winter squashes indoors 3–4 weeks before the last frost. Sow squash outdoors or set out seedlings when the soil temperature reaches 70ºF (21ºC). Sow seed ½ inch–1 inch (13mm–2.5 cm) deep. Thin successful plants to 36 inches (90 cm) apart in all directions.

Squash is often planted on slight mounds or hills. Sow 4–5 seeds 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) deep, 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) apart in hills raised 12 inches (30 cm) spaced 6 or more feet (1.8–2.4 m) apart. Thin to 2 successful plants per hill. If plants are supported on wooden tripods space hills 4 feet (1.2 m) apart.

Watering. Squash requires regular and even watering. Keep the soil just moist. Avoid overhead watering.

Feeding. Squash are heavy feeders; apply lots of compost to the soil and they should do well. You can feed squash with compost tea every couple of weeks during the growing season.

Companions. Grow squash with celeriac, celery, corn, nasturtiums, melons, onions, radishes, peas, and beans. Avoid growing squash with potatoes.

Pests. Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash bugs, squash vine borers, and other insects can all attack squash. Use rows covers to protect young plants from cucumber beetles and squash borers; remove covers when the plants bloom. Clean up refuse at the end of the season, and turn the soil in spring to bury insect pupae.

Diseases. Bacterial wilt, mosaic virus, mildew, blight, curly top are viruses and fungi that can plague squash. Control disease-spreading pests; plant disease resistant varieties, and remove and destroy infected plants.

Harvest. Tender summer squash can be harvested when the rind is tender and before the seeds have developed. Summer squash should be harvested 2–3 times a week once plants begin bearing. Break fruit from the plant, or use a knife. Clean your knife after each use to avoid spread of disease to other plants.

Allow winter squashes to mature fully on the vine until their skins are extremely hard before harvesting. Harvest winter squash before the first frost. After harvest, winter squash should be allowed to cure outdoors; dry and toughen the skins by exposing winter squash to sun for 5–7 days or place the squash in a cool, dry ventilated area for 5–6 months.

Summer varieties. Summer squash varieties include scalloped squash or patty pan, yellow crookneck, straightneck, cylindrical, green or gray zucchini, and Italian squash.

Winter varieties. Winter squash varieties include acorn, banana, buttercup, butternut, cushaw delicious, hubbard, marrow, spaghetti, turban, and pumpkins.

Tomato Growing

Tomatoes can be planted in your garden if night temperatures are averaging warmer than 55ºF. One key to tomato success is simply to remember that tomato blossoms don’t set fruit when the night temperature is below 55ºF or above 70ºF (13-21ºC).

It’s best to choose tomato varieties suited to your climate: varieties for cool weather, hot and humid weather, or hot and dry weather. Check with tomato growing friends or a nearby garden center to see which varieties are favorites in your area. You can also ask the growers at the farmers’ market nearest to you.

Once you choose your tomatoes, the growing part is straight forward. Here are a few guidelines:

Site. Plant tomatoes in full sun. In cool regions, plant tomatoes near a wall or the side of a house or building that faces west or south. The wall will soak up the day’s heat and release it at night keeping tomatoes warm.

Container growing: Tomatoes can be grown in containers indoors year-round. Minimum container depth should be 12–18 inches (31-45 cm) deep and just as wide Indoors use ultraviolet “grow lights” to promote flowering and fruiting—tomatoes require a minimum of 6 equivalent full-sun hours per day. For container plants, install a cage at the time of planting to support the plants’ foliage and fruits.

Soil. Tomatoes prefer light, loose, fertile, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matte or compost added. Add a handful of bone meal to each planting hole. If you live in a cool region, warm the soil by placing black plastic on the bed a few weeks before planting.

Sowing seed. Sow tomato seed ½ inch (13 mm) deep and 18–48 inches (45–122 cm) apart, thinning successful plants to 36–42 inches (90–107 cm) apart.

Selecting garden center seedlings: Select plants 6–8 weeks old, usually in a 4-inch (10 cm) pot. Check bottom of pot to make sure roots are not growing through and plant is not root bound. The best seedlings are short bushy plants with dark foliage and no flowers.

Transplant seedlings. Transplant tomato seedlings 12–24 inches (30–60 cm) apart for determinate or bush varieties and 24–36 inches (60–90 cm) apart for indeterminate or climbing varieties. Place tomatoes into a 6-inch (15 cm) hole, allowing 4 inches (10 cm) of plant to remain above the soil. Clip off leaves below soil line. The plant will form added roots on the buried stem.

Planting time in short-season climates: If you live in a region where the growing season is short, choose extra-hardy, early-maturing tomato varieties.

Watering: Keep the soil moist but not wet; maintain even moisture throughout growth period. Water heavily enough to reach the plant’s deepest roots, about 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) of water every week.

Feeding. Tomatoes require a moderate amount of nitrogen and ample amounts of phosphorus and potassium. Abundant soil phosphorus is important for early high yields. Too much nitrogen will encourage leaf growth, but not flowers and fruit or soft fruit susceptible to rot. Once the plants is well established and in full blossom, feed your tomatoes with a weak compost tea or fish emulsion every 2 weeks from the first blossoms set until the end of harvest.

Staking. Bush tomato varieties can be grown without support although cages may be used. Climbing tomato varieties should be staked, trellised, or caged, and pruned for best results. Train indeterminate tomatoes using a 2-by-2-inch (5 cm) 6-foot-long (1.8 m) stake, a wire tomato cage or cylinder with opening large enough to put your hand through. Set the support in place at planting time. Anchor cages to a pair of 4-foot (1.2 m) stakes driven into the ground before planting. Use soft ties to train the plant to a stake, or train branches through the cage as the plant grows. Tie the main stem every foot or so with soft twine or horticultural tape.

Pruning and pinching. Indeterminate vines should be pruned so that only one or two main stems develop. Pinch off suckers that grow between the main stem and the branches. (Suckers are non-flowering shoots that grow in the angle between the main stem and leaf stalks.) Pruning allows nutrients to be used for fruit development. Pinch out the growing tips when the plant reaches the top of its support.

Pests. Protect young tomato plants from cutworms with cardboard, plastic, or metal collars. Handpick tomato hornworms or use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).

Diseases: Tomatoes are subject to a variety of plant diseases, both viral and fungal. Plant geneticists have developed disease-resistant varieties, identified by the letter “V” (verticillium wilt), “F” (fusarium wilt), “N” (nematodes, a microorganism that causes cankers on the roots), and “T” (tobacco mosaic virus—tomatoes are a relative of the tobacco plant, and subject to viral diseases of that plant species). Select resistant varieties; use young, healthy transplants.

Harvest. Harvest tomatoes in late summer 50 to 90 frost free days after planting. Pick the fruit when it is evenly colored but still firm. Support the vine in one hand and gently pull the fruit to prevent damage to the plant. A month before the first expected frost, start plucking new flowers off the plants. This will direct the plant’s energy into ripening tomatoes already on the vine.

Varieties. There are more than 1,000 tomato varieties, but there are just three major tomato categories based on use: cherry or miniature, cooking, and slicing and eating:

• Cherry or miniature: smallest ranging in size from ¾–1½ inches (1.9–3.8 cm) in diameter and in hues of red, yellow, and zebra-stripe green. Use in salads or for snacking. Well known varieties include: ‘Sweet 100 Plus’, ‘Sun Gold’, ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’.

• Cooking: usually oblong or pear shaped, with meatier, less juicy flesh than the eating varieties; sweeter flavor; generally ripen at the same time providing quantities for canning and sauces. Well known varieties include: ‘Juliet’, ‘Tuscany’, ‘Milano’, ‘Amish Paste’, and ‘San Remo’.

• Slicing and eating: generally the largest, juiciest, most flavorful tomatoes. They come in both early-season and longer-developing varieties; those with longer growth periods have enhanced taste and texture. Well known varieties include: ‘Celebrity’, ‘Big Beef’, ‘Big Boy’, and ‘Better Boy’.

Kitchen Garden Almanac for June

June is the month to look ahead to the fruit harvest. Peaches and apricots--the early producers--should be thinned by now and many have already come to harvest. Apples, pears, and plums--like the ones above--need your attention now and should be gradually thinned during June.

Fruit trees commonly produce many more fruitlets than they can bear. When you set out to thin your fruit trees, one fruit per spur, or two at the most, is a good guide. But don't rush to thin your fruit trees, work with nature. The natural fruit fall for apples, pears and plums will come later this month and in July. If your trees are heavy laden, go ahead and thin a few fruits now. Start with fruits that are less than marble-sized, discolored or misshapen. Then wait to see which fruits nature drops and do additional thinning after if necessary.

Melons should also get your attention in June. The growing point of melons should be pinched out now and melon plants should be limited to four side shoots each. Make sure the shoots you choose are spread out in opposite directions. When each side shoot has produced five leaves, pinch out the growing tip for that shoot. Soon you will have sub-laterals and flowers.

If you want to make sure your melon harvest is full later this summer, look in June for the flowers with a tiny bulge on the stalk right behind the petals--these are the female flowers. On a sunny day, take male flowers, remove their petals and brush them against the knob-like stigmas of the female flowers. When the fruits begin to swell, choose one fruit for each of the four side shoots--that is four melons per plant, and remove the others.

Summer weather conditions will prevail in all growing regions during June. Here is a kitchen garden guide for growing zones 2-11 for the month of June:

Harvest. Lift early potatoes. Finish cutting asparagus by the middle of the month if you haven’t stopped already. Start picking herbs for using fresh and for freezing or drying.

Succession planting. Make succession sowings of green beans, beets, carrots, endive, kohlrabi, lettuces, radishes, and turnips. Make second plantings of bush beans, cucumbers, and sweet corn if you live in a long season region, growing zones 8-11. Replace spring peas, lettuce, and potatoes with field peas, limas, or other warm-weather crops or plant a summer cover crop of soybeans to help renew the soil.

Sow seeds. Crops that can be sown by seed in June include lima beans, snap and shell beans, beets, main crop carrots, cucumbers, Florence fennel, kohlrabi, New Zealand spinach, summer bunching onions, parsnips, peas, winter potatoes, pumpkins, salsify, and summer and winter squashes. Fall or cool-season crop seeds that can be sown in June include broccoli, cauliflower, winter cabbage, and leeks.

Set out seedlings. Transplant out warm-weather seedlings such as bush, runner, and pole beans, French beans, sweet corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers, pumpkins, tomatoes, and summer and winter squashes. Plant seed potatoes. Eggplant, pepper, and tomato seedlings are best transplanted into the garden after they have reached 4 to 5 inches (10-12 cm) tall. Nights should be consistently above 55ºF , otherwise their blossoms will drop.

Tomatoes. Plant outdoor tomatoes providing stakes or cages for all but bush varieties. Tie them gently, but firmly, to stakes to secure them. Water thoroughly and pinch back new growth of tomatoes to ensure a good crop later.

Herbs. Sow chervil and dill, and thin out herb seedlings. Take cuttings from rosemary and sage if not done last month. Water the herb garden freely during dry weather, although most herbs can survive droughts.

Fall garden. Direct-sow now crops for harvest during the cool fall weather: beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, winter cabbages, cauliflower, self-blanching celery, chicory, peas, and rutabaga. Ready a bed for fall greens like lettuce and spinach. Cultivate the soil and add organic matter.

Watering. Water transplants every day until they are well established. Pay close attention to tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons, zucchini, cucumbers, and squashes; they need regular water when flowering and until their fruits fill out. Don't over water beans and peas until they have flowered; then keep them moist. Lettuce, spinach, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, broccoli, and cauliflower do best when watered regularly.

Pests. Protect summer squash from cucumber beetles while plants are young by covering the plants with horticultural fabric. Watch out for aphids on broad beans and root flies on cabbages, carrots and onions. Handpick Colorado potato beetles and other pests. Water plants in the morning so they don’t become susceptible to fungus and insect infestation. Mulch when seedlings are several inches high to keep down and limit weeds. Solarize pests and diseases in vacant beds by wetting the soil, then covering it with clear plastic for about a month.

Berries. Harvest blackberries and blueberries. Protect bush and cane fruits from birds with fine netting or wire cages.

Cut fruit-bearing raspberry and blackberry canes, and other brambles back to ground after harvest. Cut new shoots back to about 2 feet. Tie new canes to support wires, allowing a maximum of eight canes per plant. New shoots are soft and easily damaged. Summer-prune gooseberries by cutting back side-shoots to five leaves.

Continue to harvest strawberries. Cover ripening berries with netting to protect from birds. Remove runners from young strawberry plants. Peg down strawberry runners from established plants to create new plants.

Tree fruit. Prop up fruit-laden branches to prevent breakage and harvest fruit, such as cherries, when ready. Thin apples, peaches, pears, and plums. Mulch and water deeply fruit trees if the weather is dry. Check stakes and ties. Keep down weeds.

Watch for signs of pests and disease. Prune wood damaged by fire blight. Hang coddling moth traps on apple trees. Spray against apple scab, mildew, and aphids. Trap larvae on tree trunks and destroy.

Fertilize citrus and tropical fruit. Prune litchi, mangoes, and other tropical fruits after the harvest this month.

Greenhouse. Water and feed greenhouse grown tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, never letting the soil dry out. Continue to tie in tomato plants and pinch out side shoots. Attach slings or nets to melons as they swell. Feed greenhouse plants regularly. Use biological pest controls for greenhouse pests.

Containers. Many summer vegetables and herbs can be grown in containers. Water container plants as needed, daily during hot, dry weather. Set supports for melons and tomatoes in containers. Feed plants in containers regularly, unless slow-release fertilizer granules were incorporated before planting. Use a liquid fertilizer such as compost tea. Turn hanging baskets regularly so that the plants develop evenly on all sides of the basket. Watch for pests and signs of disease.

Aprium-Peach Cobbler

The fruit cobbler has an interesting history. It was invented in America sometime in the middle of the the nineteenth century. Where is not exactly clear; some say the midwest; others say the west. The names of American cobblers are a study in themselves: the Betty, the Grunt, the Slump, the Buckle, and the Sonker. And those don't include the Crisp or the Crumble.

Here is a tasty Aprium-Peach Cobbler that you can put together easily in late spring, when the universes of ripe apriums and peaches intersect. Now, this could have been an aprium cobbler, or a peach cobbler, or an apricot cobbler. But the apriums and the peaches were just a few steps apart at the farmers' market, so aprium-peach cobbler it was.

As you will see there is a bit of lemon zest added to this recipe. That's because the aprium and the peach are both quite sugary and sweet. If you decide to use a berry, such as a raspberry, in place of the peach or aprium, the tart berries will balance the flavors and bit less lemon zest will do. You can have fun with this recipe substituting nectarines for peaches or plums for the apriums. This could be a peach-raspberry cobbler or a peach-plum cobbler or....well, just have fun!

Ingredients

Biscuits

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 tablespoons margarine or butter

1 beaten egg

3 tablespoons milk

Filling

½ cup sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons water

2 cups peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced

2 cups apriums, peeled, pitted, and sliced

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon sugar or more for the biscuit topping at baking

Sweetened whipped cream or ice cream

Directions

For the biscuit topping: In a medium bowl stir together the flour, the ¼ cup sugar, baking powder, and cinnamon. Cut in the margarine or butter until the mix looks like coarse crumbs. Combine the egg and milk and set aside.

For the filling: In a medium saucepan combine the ½ cup sugar and cornstarch; add water. Combine the peaches and apriums, lemon peel zest, and lemon juice and stir. Cook and stir till thickened and bubbly; stir gently so as not to break up the fruit. Transfer hot filling to a shallow 2-quart casserole.

Add the egg mixture all at once to the dry ingredients, stirring just till moist. Spoon the topping into 6 to 8 mounds on the hot filling. Sprinkle liberally with 1 or more teaspoons of sugar.

Bake in a 400ºF oven for 10 to 40 minutes (more time means the filling will be thicker and more gooey) or until a toothpick inserted into the biscuit topping comes out clean. Serve warm with sweetened whipped cream or ice cream.

Kumquats to Table

Easy, fast, and tasty is the best way to describe kumquats.

Kumquats don't need any special attention before going to the table. There's just not much you can do to get more out a kumquat other than to give it a quick rinse and add it to the mix.

The rind of the kumquat is thick but tender and refuses to separate from the flesh. If you insist on putting in some extra time with the kumquat, simply roll it gently between your thumb and your finger. This extra effort will release the fruit's essential oils to emphasize its tasty-tartness.

Kumquats have a flavor affinity for cardamon, chicken, chutney, cinnamon, other citrus fruits, duck, ginger, and mustard.

You can add kumquats to fish and poultry dishes, roast meats, and, of course, fruit or green salads.

Here are a few other kumquat serving ideas:

• Thin slice kumquats on salds with Belgian endive or onions and fennel.

• Add to stuffings.

• Bake in cakes and muffins.

• Candy or pickle and add to ice cream.

You can preserve kumquats whole or sliced. To preserve whole kumquats, first blanch them three times: cover with cold water and bring to a boil and drain each time. Then simmer the kumquats in medium syrup, one part sugar to two parts water, until they become translucent. To preserve sliced kumquats, you can eliminate the preliminary blanching.

Choose: Select firm kumquats that have glossy rinds without cracks or blemishes. Soft kumquats can spoil rapidly.

Store: Kumquats will keep for a few days at room temperature. You can refirgerate kumquats in a plastic bag for up to a month.

June Garden in the Sourthern Hemisphere

The first day of winter will arrive later this month in the southern hemisphere, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, and South Africa. Many birds have headed north and nature has finished its preparation for the cooler and cold days ahead.

June is a good month to mulch strawberries and protect them from winter cold. Fall-bearing raspberries and other brambles should be pruned to the ground during June in the southern hemisphere.

If you are growing herbs in containers, you can pinch off sprigs this time of year to remind you of the summer garden. 'Pixie' is a small tomato that you can grow with parsley in an indoor container. Keep that in mind for next winter.

Autumn planted carrots won't be big right now, but they will be sweet. Other winter crops to enjoy are crisphead lettuce, chard, scallions, leeks, Brussels sprouts, and turnips. Winter fruits ready this month include pears, seen above, apples, and citrus fruits.

June is a good time to sit with your seed catalogs and think about next spring.

Here is a list by region of vegetables and herbs to be planted in the Southern Hemisphere during June:

Temperate regions: Vegetables: artichoke suckers, asparagus crowns, broad beans, cress, lettuce, mustard, onions, peas, shallots, spinach, strawberry runners. Herbs: garlic.

Tropical and sub-tropical northern regions: Vegetables: asparagus crowns, beans, beets, broad beans, cabbage, carrots, celery, Chinese cabbage, cress, endive, fennel, lettuce, mustard, spring onions, parsnip, peas, potatoes, radish, shallots, silverbeet (Swiss chard), spinach, strawberry runners, tomato, zucchini. Herbs: angelica, basil, borage, caraway, celeriac, chamomile, chervil, chives, coriander, dill, garlic, hyssop, lemon balm, marjoram, oregano, parsley, salad burnet, thyme.

Cooler southern regions: Vegetables: asparagus crowns, cress, lettuce, sonion, peas, spinach, strawberry runners. Herbs: garlic.

June Harvest Schedule for the Southern Hemisphere:

Here is a roundup of vegetables and fruits ready for harvest during June in the Southern Hemisphere:

Vegetables: beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celeriac, Chinese cabbage, corn, kale, lettuce, parsnip, peas, purslane, radish, rutabaga (Swede), spinach, turnips.

Fruits and nuts: apples, avocadoes, banana, feijoa, grapefruit, guavas, kiwifruit, kumquat, limes, early mandarins, olives, oranges, passionfruit, pears.

Savory Radish-Cabbage Coleslaw

Here’s an easy coleslaw you can put together right from the spring garden:

1 Head of cabbage

1 Bunch of radishes

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

Chop cabbage finely

Chop radishes finely

Salt and pepper to taste

Just enough mayonnaise to cover all, added slowly to make sure the slaw does not get to soggy.

This coleslaw has a sophisticated radish bite to it. It’s savory. No sugar, so it’s not your average picnic slaw. We matched this slaw with grilled salmon and steamed peas and mushrooms and every bite was a delight.

This recipe was a favorite of Agnes Palmer of Walla Walla, Washington. When the Schmidt family put together their favorite family recipes in 2000, Agnes coleslaw was right there next to potato chip cookies (hmm, that’s another story).

The story goes that Agnes insisted on radishes from Fleenors, the favorite Walla Walla grocery of the 1950s and 60s that the Fleenor brothers hovered over. The gist is: choose your radishes with care. Fresh spring radishes with bite are what set this coleslaw apart.

How many variations of coleslaw are there? How many cooks make coleslaw?

“Koolsla” is a shortening of the Dutch “koolsalade” which means cabbage salad. “Cole” is the English term for cabbage coming from the Latin “colis” meaning cabbage. In some places, such as the American South, coleslaw is just plain “slaw.”

If you have a favorite family recipe, we'd like to try it and write about it.

June Garden in the Northern Hemisphere

There's an old rhyme that says, "A swarm of bees in June is worth a silver spoon." And so it is, as summer arrives later this month in the northern hemsphere.

Bees still have their work cut our for them in June even though many fruit blossoms--apricots and plums, for instance--have given way to green fruit. Not so for the pineapple guava, seen above, which is now coming into full bloom. Bees are the chief pollinators of pineapple guava and if their work is successful the fruit will arrive in autumn.

If the blossom of the pineapple guava looks good enough to eat, go ahead. Each flower is made up of four to six fleshy petals that are white tinged with purple on the inside. The petals are mildly sweet and will make a tasty and colorful addtion to spring salads.

When summer fades, the fruit of the pineapple guava, also called feijoa, will be ready for the table. Even though its skin will be green, its cream-orange colored flesh will be sweet and fragrant. You can eat it fresh or cooked. Add pineapple guava to fruit salads, yogurt, or ice cream.

Besides the flowers of the pineapple guava, June is one of the best months to enjoy roses. Roses are at their freshest this time of year.

June was not always the sixth month of the year. It was once the fourth month, named for the Roman goddes of marriage, Juno. Julius Caesar rearranged the calendar, but June has remained a favorite month for brides. It is said that there are more flowers in bloom in June than any other month of the year. All the better for bouquets.

June is also a great month for visiting the farm markets.

Here is a list of vegetables and fruits ready for harvest in the northern hemisphere during June: Vegetables: beans, beets, carrot, chard (silverbeet), early corn, apple cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, turnip, zucchini. Fruits: apricots, cape gooseberries, cherries, gooseberries, grapefruit, lemons, loganberries, nectarines, oranges, passionfruit, peaches, plums, raspberries, strawberries.

Here is a planting list for June in the northern hemisphere:

Cool northern regions—Zones 3-6. Vegetables: beans, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard (silverbeet), cress, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce, marrow, melons, okra, spring onion, parsnip, potato tubers, pumpkin, radish, rhubarb crowns, rutabaga (Swedes), salsify, Swiss chard (silverbeet), spinach, squash, sweet corn, zucchini. Herbs: basil, boarage, chamomile, chervil, chives, coriander, hyssop, lemon balm, oregano, parsley, salad burnet, thyme.

Temperate Regions—Zones 7-9. Vegetables: beans, beets (beetroot), broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cape gooseberry, capsicum, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard (silverbeet), chicory, cress, cucumber, eggplant, endive, leeks, lettuce, marrow, melons, mustard, spring onions, parsnip, peas, pumpkin, radish, rhubarb crowns, salsify, squash, sweet corn, tomato, zucchini. Herbs: basil, borage, celeriac, chamomile, chervil, chicory, chilli, chives, fennel, hyssop, lemon balm, oregano, parsley, salad burnet, thyme.

Subtropical and Tropical Regions—Zones 10-12. Vegetables: beans, cabbage, cape gooseberry, capsicum, celery, Chinese cabbage, cress, cucumber, eggplant, fennel, lettuce, marrow, melons, mustard, okra, parsnip, peas, pumpkin, radish, rhubarb crowns, Swiss chard (silverbeet), spring onion, squash, strawberry runners, sweet corn, sweet potato, tomato, zucchini.

Never Miss a Garden Tip!

Just enter your email address and you will subscribe to "Harvest To Table" Web site updates via email for free. Make sure you confirm your subscription from the confirmation message you'll receive in your mailbox right away.

June 2008 Monthly Archive

Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia: The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide

A practical vegetable and herb garden encyclopedia

Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia:
The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide