Never miss a recipe!
Enter your email address to subscribe to Harvest to Table free via email:
almanac apples artichoke arugula asparagus basil beans beets best bet varieties blueberries bok choy books broccoli brussels sprouts cabbage carrots cauliflower celery chard cherries chilies Chinese cabbage Chinese leaves compost cooking cool-season vegetables corn cucumbers dates delicious bite delicious bites dried beans eggplant farmers market fennel fresh this week garbanzo bean gardening tips garlic grapefruit grapes herbs horseradish hot peppers how to grow in the garden kale kitchen garden kitchen garden almanac kohlrabi leeks legumes lemon lettuce mandarin orange melons mint mushrooms mustard greens nectarines okra olives onions oranges parsnips peaches pears peas peppers pests and diseases pests diseases problems potatoes pumpkin radish recipes rutabaga salsify seed starting shallots soil Southern Hemisphere spinach spring onions squash strawberry summer squash sun-dried tomato sunchokes sweet corn sweet pepper sweet potato tangerine tomato turnip turnip greens vegetable garden watermelons winter squash zucchini
Categories
- Around Here
- Berries
- Best Bet Varieties
- Bulb Vegetables
- Cereals & Grains
- Citrus Fruits
- Companion Planting
- Container Gardening
- Cooking
- Delicious Bite
- Dried & Candied Fruit, Rhubarb
- Dry Gardening
- Flower Vegetables
- Food For Thought
- Fresh This Week
- Fruit Vegetables
- Fruits
- Gardening Tips
- Harvest and Storage
- Herbs, Spices & Condiments
- How to Grow
- In The Garden
- Indoor Gardening
- Kitchen Garden Almanac
- Leaf Vegetables
- Legumes
- Making A Kitchen Garden
- Melons
- Mushrooms
- Nuts & Seeds
- Pests Diseases Problems
- Polls
- Pome Fleshy Fruits
- Quick Crops
- Recipes
- Root Vegetables
- Season Extension
- Seed Starting
- Southern Hemisphere
- Stalk Vegetables
- Stone Fleshy Fruits
- Storing Vegetables and Fruits
- Tropical Fruits
- Tuber Vegetables
- Vegetables
Measurement Converter
Hardiness Zone Finder
Find your zone by entering your zip code
Favorite Food and Garden Blogs
American Community Gardening Association
Center for Ecoliteracy
Common Ground Garden Los Angeles
Compost Guide
Culinate
Eat Local Challenge
Eat Well Guide
Edible Communities
The Edible Schoolyard
The Ethicurean
Food Routes
The Garden Lady
Gardeners Anonymous
In My Kitchen Garden
Local Harvest
Locavores
Mighty Foods
Mother Earth's Garden
National Gardening Association
Reading Dirt
Seafood Watch
Seeds of Change
Shirls Gardenwatch
Simply Recipes
Slow Food USA
Sonoma County Master Gardeners
Sustainable Table
This Garden Is Illegal
Thoughts on the Table
Veggie Gardening Tips
What to Eat
Harvest to Table
A practical guide to food in the garden and market
Pumpkin Varieties: Best Bets and Easy-to-Grow
Filed under: Best Bet Varieties, Tagged as: best bet varieties, how to grow, pumpkin
Pumpkins for pies. Pumpkins for Jack-o-lanterns. Pumpkins for the little ones. Pumpkins for the "Biggest Pumpkin Contest."
Pumpkins are not difficult to grow. Grow them just like any other winter squash. (Keep reading to the bottom of this post and I will give you my tips for sure-fired pumpkin growing success. Also see How To Grow Pumpkins.)
Here is a list of best bet, easy-to-grow pumpkins divided into size categories: (1) small pumpkins (2 to 5 pounds); (2) intermediate-size pumpkins (8 to 15 pounds); (3) large pumpkins (15 to 25 pounds); (4) jumbo pumpkins (50 to 100 pounds and larger).
Small pumpkins (2 to 5 pounds):
• Baby Bear. 105 days. AAS. Half the size of a normal pumpkin. Fine-grained flesh, excellent for pies. Deep orange fruit 5 to 6 inches wide and 3½ to 4 inches tall. Weighs 1½ to 2 pounds. Strong stem is easy to grip. Seeds are semi-hullless for seed toasting. Blight and frost tolerant. Cross between New England Pie and a small naked seed pumpkin. Great for home garden
• Baby Pam. 100 days. Deep orange flesh; good for pies. Uniform size: 5 inches tall by 5½ in diameter. Smooth skin; indistinct ribs. Tight, secure stem. Vigorous 10 to 12 foot vines. Heavy yield. Also called "Oz."
• Small Sugar (also called
• Winter Luxury. 85-100 days. Sweet, juicy, and tender. Very good keeper for winter use. Moderately small fruit 9 to 10 inches in diameter 6 to 7 inches deep; weighs 7 to 8 pounds. Nearly globular and narrowly ribbed; yellow-orange skin, uniform fine, light-gray cork-like netting; pale orange flesh. Introduced in 1893.
Intermediate Pumpkins (8 to 15 pounds):
• Autumn Gold. 100 days. AAS. Meaty, deep-orange flesh for pies. Medium-sized fruit weighs 10 to 15 pounds, round to rectangular in shape, nicely ribbed; rich orange skin matures to golden when mature. Contains the "precious yellow gene": all fruit is deep yellow; no green pumpkins at harvest. Vigorous vine produce 3 or more fruit. Hybrid.
• Bushkin. 95 days. Thick, delicious light-yellow flesh, keeps well. Use for pies, seed snacks, and carving. Bright golden orange pumpkins weigh 8 to 10 pounds; 1 to 3 fruits per plant. Compact, bush-type vine for large container or small garden, vine spreads only 5 to 6 feet. Open-pollinated.
• Jack O'Lantern. 75-115 days. Carving pumpkin. Sweet, fine-grained, pale orange flesh; good for cooking and stores well. Smooth, yellow-orange skin; irregular shape, round to oblong, shallow ribs, 9 to 10 inches tall, 7 to 10 inches in diameter; weighs 10 to 18 pounds.
• Spirit. 95 days. AAS. Thick, meaty flesh for pies and custards. Round fruit, 12 inches in diameter, moderately ribbed, weighs 10 to 15 pounds; bright orange skin. Semi-bush, short-vined plant spreads to 5 feet. Early-maturing. Heavy yield. Hybrid.
Large pumpkin (15 to 25 pounds):
• Big Tom. 120 days. Large orange pumpkin, 11 inches tall, 13 inches wide, flat on both ends; orange rind, orange-yellow flesh, weighs 18 pounds or more pounds.
• Cinderella (also called Rouge Vif D'Etampes). 84-100 days. Sweet, yellow-orange flesh. Globe-shaped pumpkin, smooth, bright-orange skin, 10 inches in diameter, weighs 20 to 25 pounds. Bush-type vine needs 6 square feet for growing. Does not keep as well as other vine types. Open-pollinated.
• Connecticut Field. 100-120 days. Coarse, somewhat granular, deep-yellow flesh with slight sweetness; best for canning and jack o' lanterns. Large, globe-shape, flattened at ends 10 to 18 inches tall, 12 to 15 inches in diameter, weighs 15 to 25 pounds. Slightly ribbed, bright yellow-orange rind. Native American origin. Open-pollinated.
• Ghost Rider. 110-115 days. Yellow-orange flesh for processing and for jack o'lantern carving. Round fruit with dark-orange, ridged rind, and long dark-green to black stem; weighs 15 to 30 pounds.
• Happy Jack. 105-110 days. Best for baking and processing. Symmetrical, dark orange fruit with strong dark green stems; weighs 16 to 22 pounds. Large vigorous vines.
• Howden Field. 105-115 days. Solid, thick flesh stores well. Large, symmetrical, ridged, rich-orange skin, weighs 20 to 25 pounds. Large spreading vines. Open-pollinated.
• Jumpin' Jack. 110-120 days. Good eating quality. Deep orange flesh. Large symmetrical, ridged, dark-orange skin, solid black-green stem, ranges from 20 to 60 pounds. Large spreading vines.
• Pankow's Field. 100-120 days. Excellent for jack o'lanterns. Large, round, symmetrical fruit, weighs 20 to 30 pounds, smooth skin. Variable skin color. Thick sturdy stem. Heavy yield.
Jumbo pumpkins (50-100 pounds):
• Dill's Atlantic Giant. 110-125 days. Huge, round, pinkish-orange fruit to 10 feet in diameter and up to 800 pounds; 200 to 300 pound fruit common on vines with one fruit; 50 to 100 pound fruits common on plants with multiple fruits. Open-pollinated.
• Big Max. 110-120 days. Exhibition-type pumpkin also good for pies and canning. Large, nearly round fruit, 17 to 18 inches in diameter; fruits average 100 pounds. Slightly rough, red-orange skin 3 to 4 inches thick.
• Big Moon. 110-120 days. Large fruits average 100 pounds, some to 200 pounds. Slightly round to 40 inches in diameter, heavily ribbed, medium orange skin, thick light-orange flesh, large crown seeds. Vigorous vine.
• Mammoth Gold. 105-120 days. Novelty and pie pumpkin with coarse pale yellow-orange flesh. Irregular globe shape, smooth mottled pinkish-golden-orange skin, faintly ribbed, 18 to 24 inches in diameter, weighs 40 to 60 pounds, some over 100 pounds.
• Prizewinner. 120 days. Good flavor, orange flesh. Large, uniform, roundish fruit with smooth, glossy, bright reddish-orange skin. Easily average 200 pounds. Vigorous vine 30 to 40 feet in length. Easy to grow without special care. Hybrid.
Pumpkin Growing Success Tips:
Pumpkin growing success will come with a few simple growing strategies:
• Plant several pumpkin plants or several seeds to ensure at least one is successful and survives pests and diseases. The pumpkin is a tender vegetable and will not germinate in cold soil; seedlings will be injured by frost. Plant after the last frost and allow a full warm growing season for pumpkins to reach maturity.
• Give pumpkins plenty of space. This will not only allow them to mature but also deter pests and disease. Vining pumpkins require at least 50 to 100 square feet per hill; keep hills 5 to 6 feet apart and rows 10 to 15 feet apart. Semi-bush varieties: space hills 4 feet apart and rows 8 feet apart. Miniature varieties: space hills 3 feet apart and rows 6 to 8 feet apart. If the garden is tight, contain pumpkins by pinching out the growing tips after a vine has one or two fruits.
• Pick pumpkins when they are a deep, solid color--orange for most varieties--and the rind is hard. Pick pumpkins before the first hard frost. Use a pruning shears to cut pumpkins from the vine and leave a 3 to 4 inch stem attached to the fruit. Pumpkins without stem do not keep well.
More on pumpkin growing: click here.
Time to plant. Sow pumpkin seed or set out transplants about 2 weeks after the last expected frost in spring. Sow or plant a successive crop 4 weeks later.
How to plant. Sow seed or set transplants in raised mounds at least 1 foot across. Place a generous amount of aged-compost or aged-manure into each planting hill before planting. For extra early harvest, start seeds in peat pots indoors 3 weeks before the last frost for planting out after the last frost.
Pumpkin plants have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. Bees or insects must transfer the pollen from the male flowers to the female. Avoid using insecticides in the garden when pollinators are active. If you must use an insecticide apply in late afternoon or early evening when the blossoms have closed for the day; it is unlikely pollinators will be active at this time.
Outwit pests. Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and squash vine borers will attack pumpkins. These pests must be controlled to successfully grow pumpkins and other squashes. Place floating row covers over young pumpkin plants until they start to bloom. This will exclude attacking insects until plants are strong enough to withstand pest damage.
Harvest. Pumpkins require 100 or more days to reach harvest. Pick pumpkins when they are a deep, solid color--orange for most varieties--and the rind is hard. Pick pumpkins before the first hard frost. Use a pruning shears to cut pumpkins from the vine and leave a 3 to 4 inch stem attached to the fruit. Pumpkins without stem do not keep well.
Grow 80 vegetables: THE KITCHEN GARDEN GROWERS' GUIDE
Never Miss a New Post subscribe to Harvest to Table by entering your email:
Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia:
The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide
A practical vegetable and herb garden encyclopedia
The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide details the very essentials to gain small crop prowess and expertise. Detailed growing guides for 80 vegetables and herbs including:
- Seed sowing, planting, and transplanting requirements.
- Site and seasonal growing requirements.
- Water, light, and nutrition requirements.
- Detailed growing characteristics: height, root depth, bloom time, and days to harvest.
- Best varieties for easy care and harvest.
- Cropping and rotation suggestions.
- Pest, disease, and environmental troubleshooting guide.
- Container growing requirements and suggested varieties.
- Propagation requirements.
- Greenhouse and coldframe growing suggestions to extend the season.
- Harvest and storage specifics.
- Plant origin and history.
- Identifying photograph of plant at harvest time.
- Brief description of how edible part is used in the kitchen.
- Common and botanical names for each plant listed alphabetically.
- Plant names in Spanish, French, German, Chinese, Japanese, and Portuguese.
- First and last frost dates and growing season days for every state and 250 cities.
- Complete index and gardener's glossary of growing terms.
Send This Entry To A Friend
Link to this page
Bookmark this page using the following link:
http://www.harvestwizard.com/2009/05/pumpkin_varieties_best_bets_an.html
Do you have a website?
You can place a link to this page by copying and pasting the code below.
<a href="http://www.harvestwizard.com/2009/05/pumpkin_varieties_best_bets_an.html">Pumpkin Varieties: Best Bets and Easy-to-Grow</a>
Never Miss a Garden Tip!
Just enter your email address and you will subscribe to "Harvest To Table" Web site updates via email for free. Make sure you confirm your subscription from the confirmation message you'll receive in your mailbox right away.
Most Popular
Recent Posts
Recent Comments
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Lima Beans
- AnnM on How to Grow Lima Beans
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Lima Beans
- anna on How to Grow Lima Beans
- alex linssey markinmy on How to Grow Lima Beans
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Lima Beans
- tine on How to Grow Lima Beans
- Anonymous on How to Grow Lima Beans
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Potatoes
- amy on How to Grow Potatoes
- Durgan on How to Grow Potatoes
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Potatoes
- Anonymous on How to Grow Potatoes
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Potatoes
- katrina on How to Grow Potatoes
- Stephen Albert on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- charlie b on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Stephen Albert on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- james on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Stephen Albert on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- james on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Stephen Albert on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Mary Bender on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Stephen Albert on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- hugh means on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Stephen Albert on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- leongks on Vegetable Disease Problem Solver
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Celery
- Sandi on How to Grow Celery
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Celery
- Flo on How to Grow Celery
- Stephen Albert on Melon Growing Problems: Troubleshooting
- John on Melon Growing Problems: Troubleshooting
- Stephen Albert on Beans: Harvest and Storage
- Holly on Beans: Harvest and Storage
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- mutuelle on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Sue Parker on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Corinne Whitfield on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- mary on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- matt on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- keith on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Carman on Spring Onions, Green Onions and Scallions
- Stephen Albert on Chinese Vegetables: Warm-Season Varieties
- Trent on Chinese Vegetables: Warm-Season Varieties
- Toleomas on Chinese Vegetables: Warm-Season Varieties
- Stephen Albert on How to Grow Radish
- Kathy on How to Grow Radish
- Stephen Albert on Growing Mint
- Chris and Growing Mint on Growing Mint
Subscribe by RSS


Leave a comment