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Melon en Surprise

Melon en Surprise was Auguste Escoffier’s title for a five line description of a tasty combination of melons and other fresh fruits in his 1903 masterpiece Le Guide Culinaire.

Of course, Escoffier was working from the notes and techniques of Antoine Carême, an earlier codifier of French Haute cuisine.

But as you will see here, it certainly would not take the minds of two of cookery’s greatest to set down the terms of one of summer’s most delightful fruit combinations.

This recipe—or something very like it—is probably written onto the back cover of your great grandmother’s most favorite cookbook. She probably heard about it from her grandmother.

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Melons

There are two ways to eat melon: at the beginning of a meal as a hors d’oeuvre or starter for savory dishes or at the end as a dessert fruit.

As a starter, melon can be seasoned with salt and freshly ground pepper or with ginger. As a dessert, melon can be sprinkled with superfine sugar or as many would have it simply plain.

So, you see, the tasty, sweet succulent melting flesh of a melon is welcome coming and going.

And, oh yes, one other thing: whether at the start or finish of a meal, melon should be eaten with a fork, not a spoon. You see, the back of a cold spoon anaesthetizes the taste buds. When that happens, half the melon’s flavor is lost. So enjoy your melon with a fork.

Now, which melon to enjoy?

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Winter Melon

Honeydew, casaba and Cavaillon melons are classed as winter melons because they ripen more slowly than other melons and are usually not ready until late fall. After harvest, they even continue to ripen in storage.

Choose: Honeydews should have a smooth, evenly yellow rind that is slightly green at the stem end. Look for honeydews that are oval or elongated. Casabas have a rough green or green and yellow skin. Cavaillons are slightly elongated with a finely ribbed rind. Some believe they are the tastiest of this group.

Serve: Season winter melon slices with salt and freshly ground pepper.

 

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