The oyster mushroom gets its name from its cap which, some say, resembles an oyster. The stem of the oyster mushrooms is perhaps more distinct; it unfurls something like one of those old-time paper lady's fans. The oyster mushroom has...

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Crack-Resistant Tomato Varieties

Tomato fruits crack when the soil moisture level fluctuates--a dry spell followed by rain, or the soil drying out followed by heavy irrigation. Cracks start at the stem end and radiate out from the shoulder of the fruit.

To avoid tomato cracking keep the soil evenly moist all growing season. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out. To check soil moisture, insert your finger into the soil 3 or 4 inches--your finger should come away just moist, not wet or dry. For mature tomato plants it is acceptable for the top inch of soil to dry--but the soil below should remain moist allowing plants to draw up soil moisture consistently.

One way to keep soil moisture even is to complete an even watering and then mulch around your tomatoes. Mulching will slow soil moisture evaporation. An alternative to mulching would be laying plastic sheeting over the planting beds and then watering at the base of the plant. Mulch and plastic can be applied after the soil warms in spring.

Continue reading "Crack-Resistant Tomato Varieties" »

Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot is a black, sunken area at the blossom end of tomatoes or peppers. The blossom end is the end of the fruit opposite the stem. Blossom end rot is most often seen on green fruits, usually the first fruits to appear on the plant.

Blossom end rot is caused by calcium deficiency in the fruit. That deficiency can be caused by a lack of calcium in the soil or the plant's inability to draw up calcium from the soil--most often caused by a lack of water. Blossom end rot is aggravated by drought or uneven soil moisture. Soil moisture taken up by plant roots delivers calcium to plant cells or by the excessive application of fertilizer, usually nitrogen or potassium.

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Broccoli Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Broccoli is treated much as cabbage. Grow broccoli as rapidly as possible. Give broccoli plenty of moisture and be sure to feed it through the season--a planting bed amended with aged compost is an important start. While broccoli is hardy at maturity, young plants should not be subjected to frost.

For broccoli growing tips see How to Grow Broccoli or Broccoli Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common broccoli growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge from soil; seedlings are eaten; roots are tunneled. Cabbage maggot is a small gray-white, legless worm to ⅓-inch long; adult is the cabbage root fly, looks like a housefly. Flies lay eggs in the soil near the seedling or plant. Maggots will tunnel into roots leaving brown scars; some plants may be honeycombed with slimy tunnels. Exclude flies with floating row covers. Remove and dispose of damaged plants. Apply lime or wood ashes around the base of plants; time planting to avoid insect growth cycle. Plant a bit later when the weather is drier.

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Brussels Sprouts Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Brussels sprouts are a fall vegetable; there is not enough cool spring weather in most regions to bring sprouts to harvest before summer. Brussels sprouts require about 3 months to reach harvest size.

Sprouts--buds or heads that resemble miniature cabbage--form in the axils of leaves. Sprouts appear first at the bottom of the stalk and must be picked as they mature. Remove leaves as buds are picked to make the harvest easier; the top leaves are never disturbed.

Brussels sprouts can easily bear light frosts and they can even take freezing weather if the thaw afterwards is gradual. But it is best to complete the sprout harvest soon after the first frost.

For Brussels sprouts growing tips see How to Grow Brussels Sprouts or Brussels Sprouts Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common Brussels sprouts growing problems with cures and controls:

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Cauliflower Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Cauliflower is grown much like cabbage, but requires more careful treatment. It is best to start cauliflower indoors where it can be protected from both cold and hot temperatures. Spring-planted cauliflower is likely to face early cold and late heat which will make the effort difficult. Summer-planted cauliflower for fall harvest will be both easier to grow and more flavorful--cauliflower prefers to leisurely mature in cool weather. Start the fall cauliflower crop at the same time you plant late cabbage

For cauliflower growing tips see How to Grow Cauliflower or Cauliflower Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common cauliflower growing problems with cures and controls:

Continue reading "Cauliflower Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Turnip, Rutabaga, Kohlrabi Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Grow turnip, rutabaga, and kohlrabi in cool-weather. Get these vegetables started early in spring at least two months before the onset of very warm weather, or plant them in late summer so that they come to harvest in the cool days of autumn.

Grow turnips, rutabagas, and kohlrabi rapidly--these crops are most flavorful if they don't linger in the garden. Thin these crops early to 2½ inches apart or more; they will suffer if crowded.

For turnip growing tips see How to Grow Turnips or Turnip Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common turnip growing problems with cures and controls:

Seeds rot or seedlings collapse with dark water-soaked stems as soon as they appear. Damping off is a fungus that lives in the soil, particularly where humidity is high. Do not plant in cold, moist soil. Make sure soil is well drained.

Young plants are eaten or cut off near soil level. Cutworms are gray grubs ½- to ¾-inch long that can be found curled under the soil. They chew stems, roots, and leaves. Place a 3-inch paper collar around the stem of the plant. Keep the garden free of weeds; sprinkle wood ash around base of plants.

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Cabbage Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Grow cabbage as rapidly as possible. Give cabbage plenty of moisture and be sure to feed it through the season--a planting bed amended with aged compost and side dressings of compost tea every two weeks will do the job.

Cabbage can be grown in three distinct crops: early, midseason and late. Early cabbage can be wintered over in cold frames from seed started the preceding fall (or sow early cabbage in hotbeds in late winter and transplant in early spring). Midseason cabbage may be sown in the cold frame 6 weeks before transplanting into the garden after the last frost in spring. Late varieties may be sown in early summer directly in the garden where they are to mature.

While cabbage is hardy at maturity, young plants should not be subjected to frost.

For cabbage growing tips see How to Grow Cabbage or Cabbage Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common cabbage growing problems with cures and controls:

Continue reading "Cabbage Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Radish Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Radishes are a cool weather crop that will tolerate some heat. Sow radishes in the garden as soon as the soil can be worked in spring and plant succession crops every 10 days until the end of spring.

Lifting radishes as soon as they are large enough to eat is important. Radishes that stay too long in the garden will become woody. Radishes germinate readily and grow rapidly so don't sow radishes too thickly and thin seedlings right away so that they don't stand closer than 1½ inches apart.

For radish growing tips see How to Grow Radish or Radish Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common radish growing problems with cures and controls:

Roots fail to form. Seed are sown too thickly. Thin radishes early and harvest roots as soon as they are large enough to eat. Thin seedlings to 1½ to 2 inches apart.

Tiny shot-holes in leaves of seedlings. Flea beetles are tiny bronze or black beetles a sixteenth of an inch long. They eat small holes in the leaves of seedlings and small transplants. The larvae feed on roots of germinating plants. Spread diatomaceous earth around seedling. Cultivate often to disrupt life cycle. Keep garden clean.

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Spinach Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Grow spinach in cool weather. Sow spinach in the garden as early as the ground can be worked in spring. Make succession sowings every 10 days for a continuous harvest of young tasty leaves. Continue sowing spinach until just a few weeks before the start of summer. Sow spinach again in late summer for a cool fall harvest. In mild winter regions, sow spinach in autumn for spring harvest.

For spinach growing tips see How to Grow Spinach or Spinach Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common spinach growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge; poor germination. Seed sown too shallow. High temperatures or dry conditions will cause seed to dry and fail to germinate. Sow seed in cool weather. Keep soil evenly moist to allow for germination.

Plants are eaten or cut off near soil level. Cutworms are gray grubs ½- to ¾-inch long that can be found curled under the soil. They chew stems, roots, and leaves. Place a 3-inch paper collar around the stem of the plant. Keep the garden free of weeds; sprinkle wood ash around base of plants.

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Carrot and Parsnip Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Carrots and parsnips grow best in loose, sandy, humus-rich soil. Size does not make for more flavorful carrots and parsnips. For best flavor, lift both crops before they reach maximum size.

Carrots and parsnips can be sown thickly; later thin both from 2 to 2½ inches apart or more depending upon the variety. Young thinned carrots can be used fresh in salads.

Carrots and parsnips are in the same plant family and are attacked by the same insects and diseases. Watch for the carrot rust fly, a dark-green fly that lays eggs in the soil near carrots, parsnips, and celery; the larvae dig through the soil to the tip of the carrot and eat their way upward.

For carrot growing tips see How to Grow Carrots or Carrot Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common carrot growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge. (1) Soil crusting: keep planting beds evenly moist until seedlings emerge; protect planting beds from heavy overhead irrigation or heavy rain which will cause soil to compact and crust. (2) High temperatures can keep seed from germinating.

Carrots emerge in clumps or not at all. Seed sown too shallow. Warm weather or dry conditions will cause seed to dry and not germinate. Cover seed with 1 inch of fine aged-compost or vermiculite. Keep soil evenly moist to allow for germination.

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Beets and Chard Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Beets grow best in cool weather. Grow beets in spring and fall in warm summer regions, in summer and late fall in mild summer regions, and in summer and early fall in cool summer regions. For best fresh eating, harvest beats when they are half grown--about six weeks after sowing. Beets will still be good eating when grown to full size.

Thinning beets is important: thin first when roots begin to thicken--the tops will be young and tender and can be served fresh in salads. Keep an eye on maturing roots and thin once more to make sure beets don't grow crowded; crowded beets will not be flavorful.

Swiss chard--chard--is a close relative of the beet. Chard shares many of the growing techniques of beets, and many of the same pest and disease problems.

For beet growing tips see How to Grow Beets or Beet Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post. For chard growing tips see How to Grow Chard.

Here are common beet growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge. Temperatures were too high when beets were planted; seed fail to germinate in hot weather. Mulch planting bed with aged compost. Keep planting bed evenly moist until seedlings emerge.

Seedlings are eaten or cut off near soil level. Cutworms are gray grubs ½- to ¾-inch long that can be found curled under the soil. They chew stems, roots, and leaves. Place a 3-inch paper collar around the stem of the plant. Keep the garden free of weeds; sprinkle wood ash around base of plants.

Continue reading "Beets and Chard Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Lettuce Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Most varieties of lettuce require cool weather or slight shading for best growth. Grow lettuce in the cool part of the year, when temperatures range in the 50s and 60sF. You can plant lettuce as soon as the ground can be worked in spring. Grow leafy varieties where the weather is warmer.

Lettuce grows well in average, but loose and well-drained soil. Don't crowd lettuce; let it leaf out and grow steadily and quickly for best flavor. Lettuce that is crowded or grown in poor soil will be tough and bitter tasting.

For lettuce growing tips see How to Grow Lettuce or Lettuce Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common lettuce growing problems with cures and controls:

Seed planted in mid summer or warm weather fails to germinate. Temperatures are too high. Lettuce seed has a germination rate of 99 percent at 77°F; the germination rate drops to 87 percent 86°F. Use an organic mulch to reduce soil temperature. Plant varieties that tolerate warm soil temperatures: Black Seeded Simpson, Progress, Great Lakes, Imperial 615.

Seedlings wilt and collapse with dark water-soaked stems as soon as they appear. Damping off is a fungus that lives in the soil, particularly where humidity is high. Do not plant in cold, moist soil. Make sure soil is well drained.

Seedlings uprooted; leaves torn. Birds pull up seedlings to feed on seed. Cover seedlings with bird block or floating row covers until established.

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Artichoke Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Artichokes grow best in areas of long mild winters and cool summers. Artichokes do not grow well where the summers are very hot, and where winters are cold and the ground freezes, artichokes must be replanted each year. Perennial artichokes should be cut back to about 12 inches in winter and the roots and crown heavily mulched with leaves or compost. For artichoke growing tips see How to Grow Artichokes or Artichoke Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common artichoke growing problems with cures and controls:

Crowns of plant rots becoming slimy and foul smelling. Botrytis rot or crown rot is a fungal disease common in rainy weather. Remove and destroy infected plants. Keep weeds out of garden where fungal spores may harbor.

Young stems chewed. Young earwigs feed on plant shoots and eat holes in foliage. Most often the damage is tolerable and the infestation is light. For heavy infestation, use traps of rolled wet paper or old flowerpots stuffed with paper to catch earwigs at night. Dump them in soapy water. Keep garden free of plant debris. Spray with hot pepper and garlic repellent.

Jagged holes in leaves, stems. Snails and slugs scrape holes in foliage at night; during the day they hide beneath boards and garden debris. Handpick and destroy slugs and snails in the evening. Place saucers of beer at soil level to attract and drown snails and slugs. Dust with diatomaceous earth around plants.

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Okra Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Okra can be grown with ease wherever sweet s grown. Okra is often associated with the South--think gumbo soup, but it grows well in northern gardens as well. Okra grows in average soil; start okra when the soil and air temperature is right for planting corn

For okra growing tips see How to Grow Okra or Okra Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Okra is generally insect and disease free but occasionally problems will arise.

Here are common okra growing problems with cures and controls:

Seeds do not germinate; plants do not emerge. Soil is not warm enough for germination; soil temperature must be at least 70°F for okra to germinate. Pre-soak seeds in water for 24 hours before sowing.

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Zucchini Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Zucchini in North America and Australia; courgette in France, England, Ireland, and New Zealand; zucchini in Italy: it's the summer squash with the shape of a cucumber. Yellow, green, or light green, it is one of the easiest vegetables to grow--all it needs is warm weather.

There are at least 50 popular varieties of zucchini. If you have bees to take care of the pollination, you are likely to have a bumper crop.

That is not to say zucchini is problem free: there are a few. For zucchini growing tips see How to Grow Summer Squash or Zucchini Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common zucchini growing problems with cures and controls:

Seed fails to germinate. Some squash seeds are "hard"--that is naturally resistant to uptake of water which results in sprouting. To overcome "hard" seed, increase germination, and slightly decrease germination time, soak seed in tepid water for 24 hours before sowing. Dry the seed on a paper towel before planting.

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Celery Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Celery requires plenty of moisture, fertile soil, and a long, cool growing season. You can start celery from seed, but germination is slow, about four weeks. Sow seeds indoors at least 10 weeks before seedlings are to be set out. A better plan might be to purchase celery starts when you are ready to plant.

Even with moisture, fertile soil, and the right climate for growing, celery is seldom trouble-free. Celery is susceptible to many pests and diseases. Here is a list of possible celery growing problems matched with cures and controls:

(For celery growing tips see How to Grow Celery or Celery Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.)

Here is a list of possible celery growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings stunted, plants appear stunted; roots appear to have knots or beads. Root-knot nematodes are microscopic worm-like animals that live in the film of water that coat soil particles; some are pests, some are not. Root-knot nematodes feed in the roots and stunt plant growth; they are most common in sandy soils. Rotate crops. Solarize the soil with clear plastic in mid-summer.

Plants produce lots of leaves but not stalks; growth is slow. Sudden temperature fluctuations during early growth. Protect young plants from cold; use horticultural cloth or cloches when temperatures are low. Don't plant too early.

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Potato Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Potato growing success can be had with well-drained, deep, sandy loam containing plenty of humus paired with cool, moist conditions. Plant potatoes in early spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use disease-free seed potatoes; cut each potato so that two eyes are on each piece.

Even under these ideal growing conditions, potatoes are not always problem free. (See How to Grow Potatoes.) Potatoes are susceptible to a host of setbacks.

Here is a list of possible potato growing problems matched with cures and controls:

Plants do not emerge after planting seed pieces. Most store-bought potatoes are treated to prevent sprouting. Plant only certified seed potatoes. Cut seed potatoes when sprouts form, two eyes on each piece, and plant immediately. Plant when the soil has warmed to 45°F or greater.

Large holes in leaves, leaves and shoots are stripped. Colorado potato beetle is a humpbacked yellow beetle ⅓ inch long with black stripes and an orange head. Handpick off beetles. Keep the garden free of debris. Spray with a mixture of basil leaves and water. Companion plant with eggplant, flax, or green beans.

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Onion Family Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Onions and their close relatives--chives, garlic, shallots, and leeks--are among the oldest of home garden plants. Allium is the genus for these crops. All varieties of Allium require loose, well-drained soil rich in nitrogen.

There are hundreds of varieties of onion family plants. All suffer from similar pest, disease, and cultural problems

Here is a troubleshooting list of possible onion family growing problems with control and cure suggestions:

Plants produce many leaves but no bulbs. Planting time incorrect or temperatures are too warm. Bulbing onion and garlic must be exposed to temperatures of 32° to 50°F for 1 to 2 months before planting to induce bulb formation. Place garlic cloves in the refrigerator for 4 weeks before planting or plant early in season so that cloves are chilled.

Plants are stunted; worms boring into roots. Wireworms are the soil-dwelling larvae of click beetles; they look like wirey-jointed worms. Check soil before planting; flood the soil if wireworms are present. Remove infested plants and surrounding soil. Keep the garden clean and free of plant debris.

Leaves turn silvery and white streaked or blotchy; leaves may become distorted. Onion thrips are most common during dry warm, weather. Keep the garden clean. Blast thrips with water to wash them away. Use insecticidal soap.

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Pea Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Fresh-picked home-grown green peas are worth the effort. The flavor of fresh-picked peas will far outdistance the flavor of store bought peas because flavor of peas dulls quickly after picking as sugar change to starch.

Peas grow best in cool weather, but peas are not limited to spring planting. Late summer and fall planting can result in fall, winter, and early spring harvests in mild-winter regions. Peas are best grown on supports to keep them off the ground and away from many pests and diseases. (For pea growing tips see How to Grow Peas or Pea Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.)

Here are possible pea growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge from soil or seedlings are eaten. Cabbage maggot is a small gray-white, legless worm to ⅓-inch long; adult looks like a housefly. Seedcorn maggot is a small, yellowish white maggot, the larva of a small gray fly. Flies lay eggs in the soil near the seedling or plant. Apply lime or wood ashes around the base of plants; time planting to avoid insect growth cycle. Plant a bit later when the weather is drier.

Seeds rot or seedlings collapse with dark water-soaked stems as soon as they appear. Damping off is a fungus that lives in the soil; it emerges where humidity is high. Do not plant in cold, moist soil. Make sure soil is well drained. Rotate crops.

Continue reading "Pea Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Corn Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Corn is the only member of the grass family that we grow and eat as a vegetable. To come to harvest quickly corn requires warm temperatures, rich soil, and even, regular watering. Corn is wind-pollinated so planting in blocks or multiple rows to ensure pollination is important.

Here is a troubleshooting list of possible corn growing problems with control and cure suggestions: (For corn growing details see How to Grow Sweet Corn and read to the bottom of this post for corn growing success tips.)

Corn Problems and Solutions:

Corn does not emerge. Soil may be cold or damp. Plant later when the soil and temperatures are warmer; make sure soil is well-draining by adding aged compost and organic matter to soil.

Insides of seed and young plants are eaten. Corn wireworm or the seed corn maggot is eating the seed. The corn wireworm is the larvae of the click beetle; the click beetle is reddish brown or black to ¾ inches long. Wireworms are brown or yellow and leathery to 1½ inches long. The seed corn maggot is a yellowish-white legless maggot, the larvae of a fly. The maggot feeds on the inside of sprouting seed. Cultivate the planting bed in fall to expose larvae to birds. Spade the corn bed and let it lie fallow every third season. To trap: use pieces of potato on a spike setting them 2 to 4 inches into the soil; check the traps twice a week. Pick and destroy wireworms and maggots from the potato.

Seedlings are cut off near the soil surface. Cutworms are gray or brown grubs that hide in the soil by day and feed at night. Handpick grubs from the soil at the base of plants. Remove weeds and keep the garden free of plant debris. Place a 3-inch cardboard collars around the stems of seedlings and push the collars 1 inch into the soil.

Seedlings are uprooted. Crows and birds will pull up seedlings to feed on seed. Cover seedlings with bird block or row covers until they are established.

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Eggplant Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Eggplant lovers grow eggplant. Eggplant is not an easy-care crop: it demands rich soil, even consistent water, warm temperatures, bonus side-dressings of nutrients, and little or no wind. If eggplants don't get what they want, there are no rewards for the grower. But keep an eggplant happy and out of harm's way and you will grow this vegetable year after year.

Here is a troubleshooting list of possible eggplant problems with control and cure suggestions: (For a full description of pests and diseases and prevention and controls click over to the Pest Problem Solver or the Disease Problem Solver. For eggplant growing details How to Grow Eggplant. (More eggplant growing success tips are at the bottom of this post.)

Seedlings are cut off near the soil surface. Cutworms are gray or brown grubs that hide in the soil by day and feed at night. Handpick grubs from the soil around plants. Keep the garden free of plant debris. Place a 3-inch cardboard collar around the seedlings stem and push it 1 inch into the soil.

Leaves roll downward but there is no yellowing or stunting. Physiological leaf roll, not caused by pathogen; it may be a reaction to temperature or weather. Keep plants evenly watered. No action needed.

Leaves deformed, curled, and discolored; plants are stunted. Aphids are small soft-bodied insects--green and gray--that cluster on undersides of leaves. Aphids leave behind a sticky excrement called honeydew; black sooty mold may grow on honeydew. Spray away aphids with a blast of water; use insecticidal soap; aluminum mulch will disorient aphids. Aphid predators include lacewing flies, ladybugs, and praying mantis.

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Pepper Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Peppers--sweet peppers and hot peppers--share nearly all of the cultural and growing requirements of tomatoes. If you can grow tomatoes, you can grow peppers. Choose a site with full sun where the soil is moisture retentive but well-draining. If you are planting sweet peppers and hot peppers in the garden, give them some distance they can cross pollinate.

Here is a troubleshooting list of possible pepper problems with control and cure suggestions: (For a full description of pests and diseases and prevention and controls click over to the Pest Problem Solver or the Disease Problem Solver. For pepper growing details How to Grow Sweet Peppers and How to Grow Hot Peppers. (More pepper growing success tips are at the bottom of this post.)

Leaves curl then become deformed and discolored; plants may be stunted. Aphids are small soft-bodied insects--green and gray--that cluster on undersides of leaves. Aphids leave behind a sticky excrement called honeydew; black sooty mold may grow on honeydew. Spray away aphids with a blast of water; use insecticidal soap; aluminum mulch will disorient aphids. Aphid predators include lacewing flies, ladybugs, and praying mantis.

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Melon Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Muskmelons, cantaloupes, winter melons, and watermelons: they all thrive under the same cultural conditions and they all share similar growing problems.

• Cantaloupes are muskmelons: these melons have pumpkin-like ribbing, a skin covered with a netting of shallow veins, and most varieties have a musk smell.

• Winter melons (which are a type of muskmelon) ripen at the very end of summer as the weather turns cool: honeydews, crenshaws, casabas, and Persians.

• Watermelons--which are a different botanical family than muskmelons and winter melons--share all of the growing requirements.

Here is a troubleshooting list of possible melon problems with control and cure suggestions: (For a full description of pests and diseases and prevention and controls click over to the Pest Problem Solver or the Disease Problem Solver. For melon growing details click to How to Grow Muskmelons or How to Grow Winter Melons or How to Grow Watermelons. (More melon growing success tips are at the bottom of this post.)

Leaves curl under and become deformed and yellowish. Aphids are tiny, oval, and yellowish to greenish pear-shaped insects that colonize on the undersides of leaves. They leave behind sticky excrement called honeydew which can turn into a black sooty mold. Use insecticidal soap.

Leaves turn pale green, yellow, or brown; dusty silver webs on undersides of leaves and between vines. Spider mites suck plant juices causing stippling. Spray with water or use insecticidal soap or rotenone. Ladybugs and lacewings eat mites.

Leaves yellow; tiny white winged insects around plants. Whiteflies will congregate on the undersides of leaves and fly up when disturbed. Remove infested leaves and the whole plant if infestation is serious. Introduce beneficial insects into the garden.

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Asparagus Problem Troubleshooting

Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that will keep on producing 20 years or longer given the right location and care. A healthy asparagus patch requires a bit of attention. Rule Number One: Keep ahead of asparagus problems, pests and diseases.

Here is a troubleshooting list of possible asparagus problems with control and cure suggestions: (For a full description of pests and diseases and prevention and controls click over to the Pest Problem Solver of the Disease Problem Solver. For asparagus growing details click to How to Grow Asparagus.) (My asparagus growing success tips are at the bottom of this post.)

Yellow to orange to reddish brown or black pustules on stems and leaves. Asparagus rust is a fungus disease. It is most prevalent in humid regions. Spear tops turn yellow and brown and die back. Plant resistant varieties such as Mary Washington and Martha Washington. Cut down diseased fern at the crown and destroy them.

Plants and leaves are yellow. Overwateing and poor drainage. Allow soil to dry to a depth of 4 inches before watering again. Check soil pH; add lime if the pH is below 6.5.

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Cucumbers Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Cumcumbers for slicing and salads. Cucumbers for pickling. Burpless cucumbers for eating out of hand. Cucumbers for containers. Give cucumbers the right conditions and they will be one of your top producing garden crops.

To keep ahead of cucumber problems, pests and diseases, here is a troubleshooting list of possible cucumber problems with brief control suggestions. (For a full description of pests and diseases and prevention and controls click over to the Pest Problem Solver or to the Disease Problem Solver. For cucumber growing details click to How to Grow Cucumbers.)

Small plants turn yellow and break off. Southern corn rootworm is the larvae of the spotted cucumber beetle (See below). Cultivate the soil before planting to expose larvae and interrupt the insect's life cycle.

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